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Alan,
I went through this too, but took another route. There are companies in N.A.
that will bore out the cylinder and put in a brass sleeve; it's about 0.032"
thick and will never pit, although they recommend against using DOT5, but I
don't know why.
Perhaps there are some outfits on your side of the Atlantic that do this. Just
for the sake of comparison, I got mine done at Whitepost Restorations
(http://www.whitepost.com) in the US, and they charged $50 US per bore (I got
both cylinders done, and they're both single bore, so it cost me $100 US. If a
cylinder were a two circuit, stepped bore type, that one MC would cost $100).
After having gone through that, and losing the springs in the process, I found
out about a place called Truechoice (http://www.truechoice.com) in the US, that
sells complete new Girling MCs for $52.95. I'm still happy with the approach I
took though because I think it's a better solution for the long term.
BTW, I got my two totally seized pistons out by putting together the
appropriate fittings and pumping grease in to the outlet of the cylinder. When
I couldn't find anything to plug the bigger hole, I discovered that the wheel
studs are the right size, so I ended up with a grease gun pumping into a brake
cylinder that was hanging off a wheel stud. It looked funny but it worked!
Regards,
Jim Wallace
Ottawa, Canada
*****************************************************
From: Alan Williamson
Subject: Another Master Cylinder Query
... But the Brake M/C has seized solid. The plunger will not move at any
price. My question is " Is it worth trying to get the piston out and seeing
if a repair kit would work, or if the piston is seized to the cylinder does
that mean that the bore will be too pitted / damaged anyway and I should
just suggest he gets a replacement M/C??"
Thank you in advance for your help
Alan Williamson
1967 TR4A
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