Bryan,
I have the same stuck hubs on my car. We feel your pain!
I have many other things to do on the car and keep putting off the hub
thing. But before the car can go back on the road, I'm going to have to
complete the job!
I've been following the "Stuck Hub In Triumph" thread for quite a while
& the following are the nuggets of list-wisdom I've picked up to date:
Torque down on your home-made puller until you think your going to hurt
yourself (I have a 4' length of pipe to extend the handle on breaker
bar, give me some serious leverage & avoid that twangy feeling in my
lower back!)... then let it all sit, go have a beer & listen for the
loud pop in the garage.
By all means use anything and everything sold for the purpose to soak
the joint repeatedly: Liquid Wrench, WD-40, Coke, beer, etc.
If it doesn't pop, get your cousin and his/her (just being PC) 3 biggest
friends to help you torque it some more. Go have another beer.
Repeat process until either the hub comes loose or you've had too much
beer to be working in the garage. Beer is the ideal "timer" for how long
you should wait between re-torquing.
It could take a couple days! Buy more beer!
I bought one of those big honkin' pullers with a slide hammer built
in... save your money, it doesn't help.
Pros & cons of heat: Con - oil boils then burns! Grease melts, then
boils, then burns! Liquid Wrench just burns. Pro - Repeated warming and
cooling with even a propane torch may help break it loose, it's probably
the repeated heat/cool cycle that eventually works. Con - repeated
warming is not necessarily good for the hubs, possibly removing any
temper.
Speaking of temper, it helps to get really pissed off at the hubs. The
beer helps that, up to a point, say two or three, then has a reverse
effect.
Perseverance helps.
If the hubs still don't come off, at least you had a party.
Humor (humour) helps.
Try to beg, borrow or steal one of the factory tools to do the job!
As a last resort, take to a pro who has a 5 zillion lb. press who will
not guarantee the condition of the hub after removal, which means it
still may be bent requiring straightening or, worse, ruined and you
might get to send another $400 per hub to one of the vendors so they can
backorder an inferior product for you.
Don't stand too near the press when they pull the hubs... better yet, go
to the closest bar and have a beer.
The problem I see with picking up used hubs 1.) if they were removed,
what was done to them in the process or 2.) if you buy a complete rear
end with the hubs attached, you will probably now have 4 stuck hubs,
rather than 2.
Moral of the story is once I get em off, I plan to set up an annual "hub
removal day" for my car and take em off on a regular basis, to keep them
from welding themselves to the axles! I'll buy the beer and invite the
cousins.
Anyone have an old, worn out wire wheel adaptor? It's probably time for
me to make a "Bedrock Tool" like Bryan's!
Keep us posted Bryan!
We expect to hear "Eureka!" any day now!
With much sympathy,
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L
Note to listers: some of the above is facetious, but if your hubs
haven't been removed in the past two years, might be a good idea to go
buy some beer.
Note to Bryan: I hope I made you laugh, these things can get damned
frustrating!
Note to all TR clubs: please up our dues $5 a year, get the factory hub
tools manufactured and buy one per club for members to share! What a
membership benefit that would be! People would join just for the hub
puller!
Note to self: buy beer.
Stinocher, Bryan D. wrote:
>
> HELP!
>
> As some of you may remember, I am trying to take my rear hubs apart to
> rebuild them (I know some of you think I should just buy new ones, but that
> isn't an option). I have built a hub puller that I think should work very
> well. It is an old wire wheel adapter that I have had capped and two nuts
> welded on. I used a hardened bolt as the crank. I bolt the hub onto the
> adaptor (to eliminate the risk of bending the flange), and crank down until
> it won't give anymore. Then I give it a few really good hits with a hammer.
> No go. So I put WD-40 on it, let it soak, still no luck. Yesterday I got
> Liquid Wrench. Still no luck. I tried heating up the flange and hub today
> (and avoiding heating up the shaft), and still no luck. Are there any other
> ideas out there? I am at a point where this now needs to be done, as I am
> ready to rehang the diff and put back in the rear suspension. I want to do
> it all at once, if possible. Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
> Bryan Stinocher
> bdstinocher@sewsus.com
> 502-782-7397 xt.2284
> 68 TR 250 CD 5853 L
--
MZ
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