PART 6
Next day I cleaned out a very dirty sediment bowl, changed a clogged fuel
filter & added fuel. I was back to where I was.
I checked the wiring and noticed that all the red wires went to lamps.
The wire from the switch required an in line fuse and did not come with
the wiring harness. I didn't notice that when I was connecting the
harness. I added a fuse line between the side lamp switch position and
the red wire and had tail lights and gauge lights.
I checked my fuel gauge. It worked before I took the car apart. It went
out with all my gauges to be rebuilt and refinished professionally. When
I first put petrol in the fuel tank I noticed that the gauge only went up
about half way. The problem was not in the sender. So I sent it back.
Now it doesn't work at all. One lead has 12V. The other rings out to go
directly to the sender unit. The sender unit ground is OK. The sender
unit float id OK and the resistance changes as the float arm raises &
lowers. I looked closely at the gauge It reads empty when the sender is
disconnected. When it is connected (with fuel in the tank) the gauge
pins to the less than zero stop. Fuel gauges are thermal and not
polarity dependent. I think the company replaced the guts of my gauge
with one that works in the opposite direction. It is now on my list of
things to take care of.
I took the car out on a couple of short runs to identify and work out
additional problems. On the second run the car stopped. I determined
that there was no fuel going to the fuel pump but there was fuel in the
tank. When I disconnected the fuel line nothing came out. The car was
flat bedded home again.
Next day I removed the fuel tank and gave it a through cleaning with a
hose. Lots of sand, grit, a piece of bark, some dead sow bugs, a spider
web and other unknown stuff came out. So much for my tape covered inlet
while all the work was going on. I drained the tank and dried the
interior with a hair dryer. After I was satisfied that it was dry inside
I reinstalled the tank and added fuel The sediment bowl and filter has
stayed clean.
The engine is still not running properly. It is running very rich. I
think it is fouling the plugs and coking up the combustion chamber.
Here are the symptoms:
Idle very rough with RPM drifting. I have found no sign of air leaks but
resealed everything with no change in the RPM drifting. Economy cruise
(using the idle progression circuit)
very rough, feeling like cylinders are cutting out. The acceleration
circuit works very well and the engine runs smoothly above 3500 RPM.
Burbles and pops through the exhaust on deceleration. Fuel consumption
very high. Spark plugs showing signs of fuel fouling. Exhaust pipe end
black and sooty. When I let off the accelerator the linkage returns
properly to full close but the RPM stays the same for a second or two
then slowly goes down.
According to the paperwork that came with the carbs:
36mm chokes
4.5 Aux Venturi
145 main fuel jets
155 air correction jet
F15 emulsion tubes
55F2 idle jets
.55 pump jet
.50 bypass jet
I'm currently unemployed so can not afford to have the carbs
professionally set up. So the TR will mostly sit at home until I get a
job and can afford have them properly jetted and adjusted. I do not want
to cause accelerated ware or any other problems buy running with too rich
jetting.
Current plans are to continue debugging the car and fire up the engine
every other day and let it reach full operating temperature until I get
some cash coming in can can get professional help.
Did I mention that my new electric fan just stopped working?
TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW -
twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create
beauty wherever you go.
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