On Sat, 30 Jan 1999 Ct54531@aol.com wrote:
> Anyway, the first thing I'm doing when the frame meets the rest of the car is
> the brake job that started all of this. Now the first question is really
> simplistic - I took the master cylinders and support bracket out at the
> beginning of this process (1 1/2 years). Now as I get set to put them back, I
> notice that the cylinders tilt downward toward the front. The pictures in
> Haynes and Ball look level. Am I seeing things? Did something bend? Does it
> matter?
On my car the masters tilt downwards. I check the fluid level when on a
slight incline to compensate (and to avoid it sloshing out the back)
> Now, only slightly more technical. I've done several disc brake jobs in the
> past, but no drums. I want to replace the wheel cylinders but am not clear on
> the directions to prise apart the retainer, etc. Is this just a matter of
> pressure. They're very rusty but, as I said, I'm going to put entirely new
> cylinders in anyway. Anyway, how exactly do I get these things off?
The retainers are 2 parts, both of sheet (spring) steel. Both parts are U
shaped. They "counter-act" each other to form an O around the casting of
the wheel cylinder.
Brush off the rust and grease, dirt, etc and you should see 2 layers. One
layer has tabs on it, the other has "dents" to fit where the tabs are.
The latter is the one to remove first. Use a drift / pin punch (or a
screwdriver, if nobody's looking) to slide the U shaped piece out. Then
the other can be removed by hand (or with punch, if it's tight).
Don't forget to remove the rubber boot before starting this, or else
you'll have a tough time finding the retainer :-)
Drum brakes are much simpler than disks, but can be a bit daunting because
it's not always obvious exactly how they work. Good luck!
If you need more, just ask... I can draw a web-page with more (better)
instruction.
-Malcolm
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