Maybe I'm getting old and cranky in my fifitieth year, but I don't think I'd
attempt to start an engine on one of the less expensive test stands, without
tieing it down to the floor very securely. I'd be concerned with torque
reaction tipping the whole mess over, which might spoil your whole week. I
ESPECIALLY wouldn't attempt this by myself....
And with that, goodbye for a few days - I'm moving house.
-----Original Message-----
From: David Moag <moag@ix.netcom.com>
To: Triumphs Mailing List (E-mail) <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, January 24, 1999 11:24 PM
Subject: Testing an Engine While On a Stand
>
>Listers,
>
>I got his email from Gary Bouffard and thought some others may find it
>useful as well. You should direct questions to him, since I've never done
>anything like this (YET!).
>
>Dave Moag
>77 Spitfire
>62 TR3B
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gbouff1@aol.com [mailto:Gbouff1@aol.com]
>Sent: Sunday, January 24, 1999 7:48 PM
>To: moag@ix.netcom.com
>Subject: Re: Some possibly dumb questions!
>
>
>Dave,
>I am having some computer problems and have lost all of my addresses
>including
>the triumph list, you may want to forward this response to the list for me.
>
>First, I want to state that my engine stand is rated for 750 lbs., you may
>need additional support if your stand is rated for less.
>
>In order to start the engine on the stand, the flywheel and starter need to
>be
>attached. To clear the flywheel, extra long bolts with spacers must be
used
>to mount the engine. For spacers I used a combination of washers and a
short
>length of 1/2 pipe ( otherwise you will need a few hundred washers.)
>Because
>The starter is attached, I was only able to secure three of the four anchor
>bolts. To compensate for the missing bolt, I wedged a piece of wood
between
>the bottom of the block in front of the oil pan and the frame of the stand.
>The above arrangement made for a very stable platform.
>
>For a fuel line I clamped about 8 ft. of small diameter hose to the fuel
>pump
>and into a gas can and duct taped all openings except for the vent. At
this
>point turn the engine over till the pump is primed. You may have to start
a
>siphon action to accomplish this.
>
>I ran my engine for only a minute, so I didn't bother with trying to run
>water
>through the block. If you intend to run longer, a running garden hose duct
>tapped to the lower inlet should work fine if you take out the thermostat.
>This way you get a good flow and KNOW that you have water circulating. I
>used
>to run my outboards for tuning, adjusting and flushing for extended periods
>of
>time like this, with no problem.
>
>I direct wired both of the low tension leads to the battery making sure one
>lead was loose enough on the COIL to pull off, so that I could stop the
>engine
>when necessary. Attach both leads of the starter to the battery and one to
>the starter, use the ground lead to make contact with the engine block to
>kick
>the starter over. DO NOT make spark contact with the battery terminals as
>there is risk of explosion because of the battery gasses.
>
>With a little starting fluid I was able to get the engine started on the
>third
>attempt after 25 years of dormancy. However, I was the proverbial one
armed
>paper hanger. It would be much easier with a friend to help with the
choke,
>throttle, and starter. In a pinch, vice grips will help perform the extra
>duties.
>
>Let me know how you make out.
>
>Gary Bouffard
>59 TR3A TS58399
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