Bryan-
You can't be gentle with these things. I have bent the flanges on hubs
before they came loose. Put a LOT of torque on that sucker, and when
you can't give it any more, pound on the end of the puller with a big
hammer, then go inside for a beer. If you're lucky, you'll hear it pop
(the hub, not the beer can) while you're inside. If not, then get out
your fire wrench and add some heat to the hub. Not cherry red, not any
color at all, just heat it evenly. I've used gas out of a can, but
oxyacetylene is faster if you have access to it.
-Skip
Stinocher, Bryan D. wrote:
>
> Well, I tried out my new hub puller. I get that sucker really torqued on
> there tight, but no budging. I was afraid to try to REALLY tighten it w/o
> asking the list. Yes, I have loosened the nut on the hub. In fact, I have
> the nut upside down on the thread and flush with the top of the threads so
> that I don't booger them up.
>
> First off, the 5/8" threaded rod is about 18" long. Is this too long? It is
> on a capped wire wheel hub, so I have about 12-14 inches sticking up from
> the cap. Should I cut it down to about 9" or so, to change the flex point of
> the rod?
>
> Second, should I weld another nut at the end of the threaded rod that is
> pushing against the nut/threads, to make a bigger area of force?
>
> Third, just how hard should I torque down? Until I think that there is
> absolutely no way it should be on there this tightly, and then some more?
> This is my first experience of trying to pop rear hubs, so I'm being
> cautious (maybe overly so, but it is easier to wait and ask the Triumph Gods
> first, instead of ruining a rear hub and having to buy a new one!).
>
> Any help will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks.
> Bryan Stinocher
> bdstinocher@sewsus.com
> 502-782-7397 xt.2284
> 68 TR 250 CD 5853 L
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