Ron,
In my opinion, and we recently had a thread on this, you SHOULD use a roll
pin. It prevents the sleeve from spinning on the input shaft. This spinning
would wear down the fork pins and the sleeve itself. Let the motion occur
at the bearing the way it is designed. Nothing horrible will occur if you
leave it out, but some people have reported chatter to develop eventually.
I replaced the throw-out bearing on my 4A recently. I saw the hole for the
roll pin, but it was not listed as a part!!! My FACTORY ORIGINAL sleeve
had an indentation on the outer rim to achieve the same purpose as the pin.
I had to go back and re-do the sleeve after it was fully reassembled.
Those transmissions are a major PAIN to get realigned to slide in
fully!!! My arms were aching for days afterward. (I did it solo).
My mechanic says the 1/16 roll pins are a little small for the job.
He recommends that you carefully drill it out to 3/32. He has found
that some pins are bent over when he rebuilds them. I suppose that another
option is to support BOTH ends of the 1/16" pin by countersinking the pin
in the other side of the sleeve. I guess you would need a slightly longer
pin then....
Also, a tip. You can fit the new bearing without risk of damaging
the balls or races by heating it on a 75 watt light bulb for 20 minutes
prior to installation. Just the the inner race directly on the naked bulb.
Use a glove to hold it later. Then while it is hot, drop it on to the
cool sleeve. It will drop right on. This is how they "cold weld" parts
on the space shuttle.
-Tony
Message text written by INTERNET:triumphs-owner@autox.team.net
>Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 03:25:50 -0600
From: "Ronald A. Dowty" <rdowty@iso.net>
Subject: Clutch sleeve roll-pin for TR6
My TR6 clutch sleeve in the parts list shows a roll pin attached to the
sleeve in the groove where the fork pins sit. I just got a new magic clutch
and it does not have it.
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