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RE: Veneer for TR6 fascia

To: "'M. Secrest'" <msecrest@erols.com>, Bandre Frank Contractor AMC/SCP <Frank.Bandre@scott.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Veneer for TR6 fascia
From: Tom Rollins <tom@ntcs-inc.com>
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:41:54 -0600charset="iso-8859-1"
Cc: "'triumphs@autox.team.net'" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Greetings,
Sorry to jump in late one this thread, but how do you plan to cut out the
holes for thin instruments?

Tom Rollins
1969 GT-6+
1972 TR-6
1974 Europa Special
tom@ntcs-inc.com 

-----Original Message-----
From: M. Secrest [mailto:msecrest@erols.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 3:20 PM
To: Bandre Frank Contractor AMC/SCP
Cc: 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
Subject: Re: Veneer for TR6 fascia



Bandre Frank Contractor AMC/SCP wrote:
> 
> Thanks to all who replied to my question about finishing the wood fascia.
> After removing the old varnish, it was apparent that the veneer needed to
be
> replace.  Found a carpentry shop that makes cabinets as a good source.
> Wound up getting cheery veneer for $1.90 per square foot.  Total for the
> front of the fascia and the rear of the cubby door was less than $12.00,
tax
> included.  If you are looking for veneer, be sure to try local
> carpentry/cabinet shops.
> 
> Frank
> '76TR6 CF57005U

Frank:

Presumably you'll use contact cement to attach the veneer -- other
glues are too viscous and will wrinkle the thin wood upon absorption.
And when you do press the veneer into place, do yourself a favor and use
a roller.  Without one, it's likely you won't be able to avoid leaving
"bubbles" in the veneer, and/or said bubbles will show up later, after the 
dash is installed.  Ask me how I know.

--
Martin Secrest
72 TR6
73 GT6

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