I have done several GT6 and Spit dashes and I think that removing the
veneer is the right thing to do. Most of the time I strip the veneer with
a thin knife and you would be surprised how easily most of it comes off. I
strip it off and sand the substrate. If the veneer is stubborn I sand it
off (always a place or two). You can see what I have done on my web page.
http://www.cfw.com/~hsgentry
click on "Look at my GT6"
then click on "Look at the panels"
Cutting the holes is probably the hardest part. I match the grain across
all three pieces of a GT6 or Spit dash and if I screw up the whole thing is
lost. I use the little break off knives so I can keep a really sharp point
and edge then I cut it leaving a little (1/16 inch or less) and sand that
to the final edge. The larger holes are not bad, but the smaller ones are
a real pain. Fortunately the smaller ones are usually covered by a bezel,
but I like it to be neat anyway. Walnut is not too bad, but cherry wants
to splinter as you cut.
Sam
At 07:55 AM 1/17/1999 -0600, Frank & Carol Bandre wrote:
>
>To all
>
>I am currently stripping the old varnish from the wood fascia of my TR6. I
>have found several small areas the the veneer had been patched by a DPO.
>If I can;t get the stain to match, I may re-veneer the panel. The question
>is: Can I glue the new veneer directly onto the old or should the old be
>revoved and the plywood subsurface cleaned. Also, I would most likely use
>an X-Acto knive to cut the holes. Is this the best way?
>
>Frank
>
>'76 TR6 CF57005U
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