Dave:
The respondent below, (Bud), has given some excellent advice on removing
your lint problem on the finish coat. The only possible additions that I
would have to his post is that there is a detailers 'clay' that can be found
in Automotive Body Supply stores that is specifically designed to remove
overspray and such. It comes in various grits. Wet it completely when
using and keep it rinsed frequently. Also, keep that 1500 or 2000 grit
paper really wet if you use it and try to use a block whenever possible to
avoid finger impressions. My personal preference is a 3M block, as I have
found others to be substandard. At the very least keep your fingers tightly
together to forma 'block' of sorts. I usually keep a running garden hose on
the area that I am working for a constant flush. It is also a good idea to
work the area in an "X" pattern to keep everything flat and smooth.
A good investment at this time may be a pneumatic buffer/polisher. These
can actuate the speed of the bonnet (bonnet as in polishing pad :)) by
increasing/decreasing the trigger. You can check your automotive Body Supply
stores to see if they have any rebuilt/used ones for sale. There are
differing bonnets as well, some for polishing and some for cutting with
compound. I paid 85.00 for my Ingersoll Rand polisher many years ago and it
has been foolproof. Good quality bonnets can be washed in a standard machine
on gentle cycle and hung on a nail to dry. While polishing keep build-up to
a minimum by using a ''spur" (a really dull screwdriver works but not as
effectively, and can damage the bonnet) I must caution you however, to use
pneumatic oil in the tool upon EVERY use. This keeps the moisture in the
compressed air from rusting the tools shut. This is a handy tool that will
be your friend in many waxing and polishing projects for years to come.
If you did not have a hardener additive in your clear coat when you shot it
you will want to park it in the sun and wait 30 days before attempting any
of this (even light duty compounds).
Best of luck, and hello to the list. I hope this first post makes it
through.
Ed
Edward C. Fisher Texas Instruments
edwd@ti.com Dallas, Texas USA
Digital Imaging Division Office (972) 995-6305
Packaging Development Group Pager (214) 410-4669
Subject: Re:Lint removal from new clear coat
Dave
My strategy would be to start with the least abrasive car polish and work
your
way down until you get the lint out or have to repaint the offending spots
all
over again (don't ask me how I know this).
Meguiers makes a polish for clearcoats (it's supposed to remove stains and
gunk
without messing up the clearcoat) that I've used on my Explorer with success
(although I wasn't removing lint). Rub until your fingers bleed with a
clean
wet (wrung out not sopping) cotton polishing cloth. If that doesn't work
then
try the same method using a regular car polish such as Meguiers #7 or
#34....I
really don't have stock in Meguiers. If that doesn't work try Mothers Mag
and
Wheel Polish (it has about a 1500-2000 grit factor) using the wet cloth.
You
could try a 2000 grit sandpaper (wet/dry) before the Mothers if you want to
keep
the grit progression in order, but since you didn't want to sand..... If
that
doesn't work then next would be regular polishing compound using the wet
cloth.
If that doesn't work then you're probably looking at sanding with 1500,1000,
600, 400 grit, which by then you'll be pulling off paint.
If none of this works claim that it's the latest look in car finishes. My
parents sprayed a perfectly good set of oak table and chairs with white
paint
and black lumpy flecks in the 50's...it was the cool look then. Wore like
iron
and stuck like glue to the wood when you tried to restore the wood to
original
condition (you CAN ask me how I know this).
Good Luck
Bud 71 TR6 CC57365
71 TR6 CC65446
____________________Reply Separator____________________
Edward C. Fisher Texas Instruments
edwd@ti.com Dallas, Texas USA
Digital Imaging Division Office (972) 995-6305
Packaging Development Group Pager (214) 410-4669
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