Terrick wrote:
>Listers,
>
>I have been following the "dead TR6 M/C" thread for a while and I have some
>practical advice to avoid White Post.
Is this advice just to save ourselves money, or is there some big drawback
to getting the cylinders re-sleeved BESIDES the money that we should know
about?
>Y'know how your NEW cars likely say somewhere "change brake fluid every 2
>years" or similar? Extend this to your TR and double it. I had the
>exact same problem and frequent fluid changes solved the problem for good,
>even with an old m/c. Some notes:
Yes, I keep fresh fluid in our cars... that INCLUDES the Japanese one!!
Obviously in my case, this hasn't paid off in the same way. I will
continue to do it, though!!
>NB. Flush the system just before you put the car away, or if in the no-snow
>zone, when the temperatures get colder. It seems that the moisture
>precipitated as the air gets colder gets into the system v. easily. If it
>is already somewhat contaminated, this may be the last straw for your
>cylinder. This fall flush, BTW, also saves wheel cylinders and front
>calipers.
>When storing the car, remove the filler cap, cover with plastic wrap, then
>loosely replace the cap. Removing the bleed hole from the cap also
>eliminates a source of air entry.
>Finally, the leaking of a TR m/c will eventually kill the brake booster
>too. Leaking from the rear, the fluid finds it's lowest point - - - the
>bottom of the brake booster. The booster has a large rubber diapraghm, no
>less sensitive to brake fluid and contamination than the cylinder its self.
>Preserve one, preserve all.
I'll let you all know what the life expectancy of the vaccuum booster is
after its internals are exposed to brake fluid, as I expect to find out at
some point!! (he, he)
>Oh ya, and the brakes will always feel GREAT first thing in the spring!!
>Do the same with the clutch and it will too.
Don't get me started on the clutch hydraulics. I'm COMMITTED to getting
those cylinders sleeved!! I've rebuilt each cylinder about 11 times now
(seriously... that's a real number, not an exaggeration!!) and replaced
each twice, and I've only covered about 35,000 miles in this car over 13
years of ownership!! That's pretty appalling performance.
The fluid turns black/opaque after only a few days' driving and then the
efficiency of the cylinders begins a slow but certain deterioration. And
this happened with BRAND NEW CYLINDERS and CASTROL GIRLING LMA brake fluid!
I'm so sick of thinking about the stupid clutch hydraulics that it's a
wonder that I've not SOLD the car!! I remember one period of time back in
1989 or thereabouts when I had to rebuild the clutch hydraulics EVERY THREE
WEEKS!! I did that routine several times, but nowadays the deterioration
is not nearly that rapid, thank God!
Pete Chadwell
1973 TR6
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