Alan Myers wrote:
>
> I appeal to the collective wisdom for your valuable input...
>
> ... moving along (too slowly) in my resto project, I'm looking at the
> various clutches used in the TR4: the original style (9", I believe)
> which I currently have in the car, and the later TR4A diaphragm type
> (8.5") which the competition prep manual recommends as an upgrade. Is it
> worth it? Also, of the latter there are two manufacturers commonly
> available: Laycock and Borg & Beck. The Laycock is somewhat more
> expensive.
>
> Any preferences out there? I would appreciate any feedback, good or bad,
> on any of the 3 possibilities (or others), in theTR4 or other models.
> When completed, this car should be 150 to 160 hp, 4.1:1 or 4.3:1 rear
> end. It will see some "vintage" track time, but mostly for fun on the
> twisty, windy 2 lane backroads in the N. Calif. sunshine, and an
> occasional commute when there are no rain clouds within 1000 miles.
>
> In advance, thanx!
>
> Alan Myers
> San Jose, Calif.
> '62 TR4 #CT17602
> (I restore it every 25 years, whether it needs it or not)
>
> p.s. Spotted an AC Cobra or excellent replica rumbling around S. end of
> S.J. over the weekend. White w/a pair of foot wide red racing stripes
> front to rear. Very serious fun looking toy! Wiped the drool of my chin
> and went home quietly in my minivan.
>
> --
> MZ
Al
I guess from looking at various manuals that the spring clutch won't
take the power that you intend to have. I use a diaphragm clutch on my
TR4 with a Triumph Dolomite Sprint clutch plate (I have to use it
because I use a TR2000 gearbox otherwise I would have used a TR6 clutch
plate) The main problem is drilling the holes in the flywheel if you
can't get hold of a suitable one. What I did was to turn a large brass
bar down to make a centralising tool for the clutch, using the fingers
of the pressure plate as the centre part, then I made a small punch with
a pip in the centre to fit exactly in the bolt holes. After using some
'tipexx' (I didn't have engineers blue) to mark the rough positions of
the new holes, I used the punch to mark them accurately, using the
centralising tool and some clamps to hold it in place. After that is
was fairly easy to drill and tap the holes. I was lucky and did not need
the whole thing balancing, but I reckon it is probably better to have
the crank balanced with the clutch especially if you are going to have a
higher than normal output from your engine. Thats what I'm going to have
done to my TR2 engine anyway.
Added benefits ot the diaphragm clutch is that it does not stick when
you leave the car off the road for a month or two, and in theory it is
self adjusting ( I left the TR4 adjuster on mine though). I think that
my clutch was Borg and Beck. I got the lot very cheaply at an
'autojumble'
Brian Johnson
1954 TR2 + 1963 TR4 (snatched back from the USA)
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