Bud Rolofson wrote:
>
> The stripped threads for one of the oil pan (sump) bolts, for which I've been
> trying to find a heli-coil (5/16 UNF), is one of the two bolt holes (out of 23
> for the pan) that is located in the front sealing block of the crankcase.
>
> I know this is dangerous but I've been thinking...am I better off simply
> replacing the front sealing block or doing the drill, tap, insert the
>heli-coil
> routine in the sealing block that's in there? I'm been assuming that one can
>do
> a heli-coil on a front sealing block. Is it the same type of metal as the
> crankcase?
>
> I did find the heli-coil or I should say the kit (special tap that is of
>course
> a smidgen larger (for the coil) than the 5/16-24 tap that I already own, the
> special insert tool, and 10 heli-coils) and paid $44.00 for it. I can return
> it unopened though if I decide to replace the front sealing block instead.
>
> The front sealing block, 2 filler pieces (I believe these are the famous
>wooden
> parts in the TR6, I'm not making this up as Dave Barry would say) and sealing
> block gaskets would cost me around $55-$60.
>
> So it may come down to the labor involved and long-term benefits. Or maybe
>just
> long-term benefits since the time spent on creeper will probably be about
>even,
> I think.
>
> Any suggestions, opinions on a new front sealing block versus a heli-coil fix?
>
> Thanks
> Bud
Don't ever consider price (money) when doing repairs of this type, the
only thought should be to do it the correct way and the way it is going
to be down the road, a bandaid is used way to often on most cars and then
when it breaks down we all cuss the manufacturer. "If it ain't broke,
don't fix it", if it is broke do it right. Just me and my right way
thinking of adding my .02 "FT"
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