Basically correct. May I just ask what the purpose of the excercise should
be, if the thing is rust free, why would you want to reinforce it in the
first place? Reinforcing things usually don't work that way.
> ----------
> From: Gambony, Jim[SMTP:jim.gambony@eds.com]
> Reply To: Gambony, Jim
> Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 4:06 PM
> To: 'Ron Botting'; shop-talk@autox.team.net; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
> Subject: RE: FIBERGLASS
>
>
> Ron,
>
> When people speak of "fiberglassing" something, it really refers to using
> a
> fiberglass cloth or mat in an epoxy binder. This can be done either to
> strengthen existing metal, or several layers can be built up in a mold to
> form replacement panels (fenders, etc).
>
> Yes, it will stick well to the steel... if the metal is cleaned well
> beforehand.
>
> If your trunk floor is truly rust free I'd be more inclined to clean it to
> bare metal and use a good epoxy type paint, something like POR-15. If you
> go with fiberglass either 1) be prepared to sand it down to a smooth
> finish
> before painting or 2) get used to a lumpy looking trunk floor!
>
>
> jmo
>
> Jim
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Ron Botting [SMTP:rcb@bmscom.ca]
> > Sent: Thursday, November 12, 1998 9:55 PM
> > To: Gambony, Jim; 'Gerald Brazil'; 'Erik Bjorkner';
> > shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net; 'triumphs@autox.team.net'
> > Subject: RE: FIBERGLASS
> >
> > Has anyone considered a fiberglass cloth with epoxy resin ? I understand
> > that epoxy similar to the Westec system (sp?) as used for marine
> > applications, sticks tenaciously to steel. Far superior that the
> > polyester resins used for regular fiberglass applications.
> >
> > I have recently replaced loads of steel in the rear tub section of my
> > '57 TR3A, after I replace the steel in the wheel arches I'm going to
> > have the rear tub section chemically stripped as I did with my frame
> > last year, (or was that '96?). What I'm planning to do, is to reinforce
> > the rust free trunk floor with a cloth and epoxy resin.
> >
> > I know the purists will cringe, I just feel that so much has been
> > replaced & patched that my '57 will never be a concourse contender, nor
> > am I restoring her with any show circuit in mind. I am, I might add,
> > extremely proud of my metal work re-fabricating both right and left
> > sides of the rear apron, a real exercise in metal forming !
> >
> > rcb
> >
> > Ron Botting
> > <rcb2@bmscom.ca>
> > Surrey. B.C. Canada
> > '57 TR3A (TS23731)
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Gambony, Jim [mailto:jim.gambony@eds.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, November 12, 1998 11:04 AM
> > To: 'Gerald Brazil'; 'Erik Bjorkner'; shop-talk@Autox.Team.Net
> > Subject: RE: FIBERGLASS
> >
> >
> >
> > Well, I'll disagree. When I was repairing the floor on my Spitfire 8
> > years
> > ago, the floor was starting to go "swissy" but with most of the steel
> > still
> > there. I wire brushed it, chemically etched it to remove any corrosion,
> > and
> > treated it with a zinc phosphate coating.
> >
> > I then laid in three layers of fiberglass cloth with resin....
> >
> > No corrosion since.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: Gerald Brazil [SMTP:gerrybraz@voyager.net]
> > > Sent: Thursday, November 12, 1998 7:41 AM
> > > To: 'Erik Bjorkner'; shop-talk@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: RE: FIBERGLASS
> > >
> > >
> > > Fiberglass is really not a good solution. Rust is like gangrene, it
> > just
> > > keeps spreading. It will spread inside of fiberglassed areas. The
> > best
> > > solution is to cut out the rusted area to really sound metal and weld
> > new
> > > metal in.
> > >
> > > GJB
>
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