While I make no claims to be a metallurgist, I have always had respect
for the tempering process... and as a result, I just kept the heat I apply
minimal... i.e. you don't have to heat things up with a blow torch until
they're glowing! I just take the cheap little propane number... and gently
heat up the area in question... certainly far LESS hot than even some parts
experience from heavy driving! Nevertheless, this is often all the heat
that is required to break a rust bond, etc.. I have NOT tried to replace
the bearings in question... but if I did... I would be willing to apply
some heat... but I wouldn't leave it to the typical shop welder to apply
HIS concept of what is enough... : ).
--Justin
Jim Bauder wrote:
> John,
>
> I have had some success doing this repair. My TR3 rear axle hub seal
> went out several years ago and I had to remove the bearing from the
> hub.
>
> I pulled the axle and took it to a local machine shop where they put
> the axle in a 20 ton press and put it under tension. After some time
> and it was obvious that it was not moving, the machinist fired up his
> welding torch and heated it up quite a lot. The axle was still under
> extreme tension. Finally it let go with a pop that scared the heck out
> of both of us. In spite of the recent advice from may listers regarding
> heat, I have always used torches to break a stubborn assembly. When
> push comes to shove sometimes the dang thing has to come apart no
> matter what. Heat is sometimes the only answer. They only charged
> me $30 or so, although I'm sure if I went back to them they would
> charge me more as it was more work than they thought it would be.
>
> I have had no problems with this type of disassembly. However, I
> don't plan on racing my TR either!
>
> Jim Bauder
> '58 TR3 in fewer and fewer boxes
> Palo Alto, CA
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