Thanks all for your quick replies. I had 1 correct. I rechecked everything.
I took the valve cover back off and recheck all the valves. Checked all the
plugs, rewired it all, hopped in and it started! Ran like crap but it
started. Quick check of timing and it was close.
BUT LOOK wires to 3 and 4 are reversed! Cut it off, switch 'em, won't start!
Switch em back, starts right up. 1-5-3-6-2-4 going counterclockwise - won't
run.
Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com Illigitimi non Carborundum
http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
-----Original Message-----
From: DANMAS@aol.com [mailto:DANMAS@aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 10, 1998 4:31 PM
To: Jim Altman; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: TR6: Extreme frustration
In a message dated 98-10-10 15:32:26 EDT, jaltman@altlaw.com writes:
> One question I find confusing is in reconnecting the plug wires might I
have
> started with 1 in the wrong place. I know the firing order, but my books
> are all rather confusing about which hole in the dizzy cap is number 1.
I
> need a reference point, i.e. the low voltage connection from the coil.
Jim,
I have just gone through the valve adjustment myself - several times - and I
may have a few hints that will help. I pull the plugs from all cylinders
first, so the engine is easier to turn over. Then, I use a ratchet and a
socket on the nut that holds the alternator pully on. Using this, it is
extremely easy to turn the engine, and has the same effect, I think, as
pushing the car forward as recommened by Ted Schumacher (if not, I'm sure
someone will let me know - please do!). From there, follow the advice given
by Ted. One advantage of pulling the plugs: Using a flashlight, you can look
into the spark plug hole and see the piston (you can also check the
condition
of the valves to a certain degree, as the valve heads are also visible, and
the cylinder walls). As you turn the engine, the piston will go to TDC and
then reverse direction. Just before it reverses, there is a slight pause,
which is very easy to spot. This makes it easy to ensure the piston is at
TDC.
Once you get the # 1 piston to TDC, remove the distributor cap and look at
the
rotor. It will point to the # 1 cylinder lead. Your timing will not be set
for
TDC, but TDC is close enough to find the #1 spark plug lead. The rotor will
be
pointing far closer to # 1 than any other, unless your timing is way off. By
definition, this is the way to determine the # 1 lead. Depending on how you
inserted the distributor, and which distributor gear tooth meshed with which
cam drive gear tooth, the # 1 lead on your car may be different than on
another (at least I think so - anyone want to comment?)
Also, remember, the distributor rotates CCW. I know, this is a stupid
mistake
to make, but ..........! I got out of bed at 2:00 AM once to reverse the
wires on my car after extreme frustration trying to figure out why it
wouldn't
start after I had done some simple, routine maintainance. I layed in bed and
worried about it till it finally dawned on me what I had done. I couldn't
wait
till morning to find out if that was the problem. It was!
Dan Masters,
Alcoa, TN
'71 TR6---------3000mile/year driver, fully restored
'71 TR6---------undergoing full restoration and Ford 5.0 V8 insertion - see:
http://www.sky.net/~boballen/mg/Masters/index.html
'74 MGBGT---3000mile/year driver, original condition - slated for a V8 soon
'68 MGBGT---organ donor for the '74
|