Michael,
If you can't get the gage needle to move by warming the bulb in the housing
(immersing it in a bucket of hot water is the safest way), it doesn't work
and needs a $85-$100 rebuild anyhow, so snip it, but try to save the bulb.
If the needle moves, it's probably worth the effort to coax the sender out
of the thermsotat housing to get it out of the car.
Don't blast the bulb with a direct flame or excessive heat. If the gage is
good, subjecting the bulb to a propane flame could distort the bourdon tube
in the gage, rendering the gage NON-RESTORABLE.
My understanding of the water temp gage rarity is the bourdon tube (and the
fact that it wasn't used beyond the TR3 series of cars.) The bourdon tube
is the "C" shaped flattened tube inside the gage housing. It is a
calibrated size and shape and, if subjected to overpressurization
(overheating the bulb) it can distort and may no longer be re-used.
BTW - My bulb is stuck in the housing too. This winter, I plan on pulling
the housing to get the bulb out, because I have a 'Murrican made water temp
gage. YUP, it's mechanical, just like the British ones, but it doesn't
look right and says "Made in the USA" on the face. The bulb appears to be
held in with the typical salt buildup and Aluminim corrosion. This winter,
I plan on letting it soak in De-ionized water (not to be confused with the
de-mineralized water you should use in your cooling system), to strip the
salts and then every penetrating lube and/or solvent know to man to get it
out.
Good luck,
Jack
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