At 9:03 AM +1000 5/10/98, Davgil@aol.com wrote:
>Help!
>
> I recently began a rear brake job on my 76 TR6 due to a leaking master
>cylinder. While I had the rear jacked up to remove the old components and
>clean the backing plate I noticed a distinct gasoline smell. I looked at the
>front and saw gasoline dropping underneath the car. Upon opening the hood, I
>saw fuel leaking from my foremost carburetor. I thought that perhaps my float
>had stuck because of the angle of the car so I jacked the front up to the same
>level. The car has been on jack stands for about a week. I have gotten an
>occasional gasoline smell in my garage and thought that it was some of the
>residual gasoline from the original leak because I did not see any further
>evidence of gasoline dripping under the carburetor. However, today I felt
>under the carburetor and it was wet with gas. I think now that the gas
>continued to leak, but was evaporating before it could drip. I am very
>concerned with this situation because my garage is in my basement and
>contiguous with the rest of my house. I need to find the way to stop this
>leak for a number of safety reasons.
>
>I have 175 CD-2 carburetors on my car. There is a small circular yellow
>plastic cap on the bottom of the carburetor around which the fuel is leaking.
>The fuel is leaking at a much higher rate since I manipulated the cap. The
>cap turns freely and will not unscrew or screw down tighter. I have a Haynes
>manual on carburetors but it only shows that the jet is located there. The
>arrangement I see under my carbs is not depicted in the manual. The other
>carburetor has an identical arrangement but the cap feels tight to the fuel
>chamber. I have clamped off the fuel line going to the carburetor, but I am
>concerned that there is enough fuel remaining in the float chamber to continue
>to leak for some time. I would like to know if I can simply remove the float
>chamber with the carburetor in position and deal with the problem or if there
>is a simple way to remove the plastic cap. Any assistance would be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>David Gill
>76 TR6
This is exactly what happened to me on Saturday. With various advice from
this list, I removed the plug. When I find a replacement O ring, it will
go straight back for the moment (until I have time to rebuild the carbs).
The plug is plastic with a brass external cover. It is held in by four
ramp clips that are moulded into the sides of the plug (ie it snaps in).
With a little effort it can be removed without damaging the clips. Turning
the plug in either direction is pointless, but rocking while applying
constant downward force seems to release it. The worn O ring allows it to
rock more than normal. The approved method is probably to open the float
chamber and release the clips from inside.
Once the fuel bowl is empty, there should be no more flow.
Trevor Jordan
74 TR6 CF29281U
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