It's always wise to fully inspect ANY car you buy... but the odds of a true
California TR being "every bit a rust bucket as those from other states" are
long. They generally don't lay down salt on the roads in (most of)
California.... and due to revenue from state income taxes... our roads are well
above average... (though I've seen better elsewhere).... and we don't have the
humidity/rains that other states see, need I talk about the average
temperatures in here? You have to worry more about a car being presented as
a "California Car"... when, actually, it's from another state.
I bought a car (as a parts car) that LOOKED like a great TR... I bought in in
San Francisco... BUT... the car was originally from back east....
fortunately... I knew what I was getting... and the deal was sweet... but
there wasn't a panel worth keeping... the frame and tub were toast.... I had
never seen that amount of rot in any TR I'd ever seen in California... I
bought it from an attorney... that, unfortunately, did not know to look for
these things... He had paid top dollar for it. When he tried to unload it...
he practically couldn't give it away.
I started to remember a friend I had in the early 80's... with a TR 6... and
his frame was terrible... you could put your hand inside it... through the
gaping holes... but.. it was originally from New Jersey.
--Justin
Los Angeles
kurt oblinger wrote:
> Don,
>
> Just because its a California car don't assume it has no rust. California
>cars can be every bit a rust bucket as those from other states. Ask me how I
>know. At some point in time, late 60s through the 70s, TR3s were just cheap
>sports cars and many were run on the cheap with a variety of bodge repairs.
>Look for rust and bodged bodywork repairs in the front fenders at the bottom
>behind the front wheels. Check the rockers, rap on them with your knuckle, do
>they sound like sheet metal or are they more solid, like stuffed with
>newspaper and trash bags and then slathered with 20 lbs of bondo. Look at the
>trunk floor. Look at the floors, particularly where they join the rockers.
>Look at the front of the frame. Are the frame ends bashed in. Look at the
>frame where the lower front A-arms mount for bodged welding repairs. A small
>magnet can be useful in detecting bondo, it will stick to steel but not to
>bondo. Be skeptical and take along a friend to offer a second opinion.
>
> Having said all this, there are some real gems out there still. Good solid
>cars needing little work at reasonable money. And I just wish someone would
>leave one for me!
>
> Please report back!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Kurt Oblinger
> Redondo Beach, ca.
>
> "I am my cars mechanic"
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