Ground strap was replaced too. It looked pretty bad so I soldered a new one
on the movable plate early in the search process. Many have replied, and I
thank each of you. Several have suggested fuel related problems, I will
check the output of the pump tomorrow, although I put a new one in about 15
months ago. It was one of the aftermarket ones. Several have also
mentioned problems relating to vapor lock and/or filter, so I'll go
searching that direction tomorrow. Guess I'll pull the carbs and look at
the float bowl valves too. They were new last summer (1997) sometime as
well.
Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com Illigitimi non Carborundum
http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-triumphs@autox.team.net
[mailto:owner-triumphs@autox.team.net]On Behalf Of George Richardson
Sent: Friday, October 02, 1998 9:54 PM
To: Jim Altman
Cc: tedtsimx@q1.net; 'Triumph List'
Subject: Re: Well beyond baffled
Jim, I still don't see that you've checked grounding on the distributor.
I have seen dizzy's in the past where the ground connection varied with
the engine temp. Probably caused by corrosion and/or grease, but
sometimes by a bad ground strap inside the distributor.
Check the ground strap in the distributor that runs from the movable
plate the points are mounted on to the dizzy case. Make sure it's clean.
One you've done that, run a wire from the dizzy case directly to the
battery ground connection. Then try running it.
I've seen quite a bit of comments here about how bad grounds can cause
all kinds of instrument and lighting problems, but most people forget
that it can cause major ignition problems as well.
jaltman@altlaw.com wrote:
>
> I thought Ted had hit on something when he suggested checking the
> connections at the solenoid, as that is where all the electricity passes
by.
> They were pretty cruddy, I cleaned it all up, but to no avail. Let me
> summarize. Engine is perky and runs fine. Spend 15 minutes on the
freeway,
> get off and it dies. Let it sit for 5 minutes and its fine (well much
> better). I have:
>
> replaced coil
> replaced condenser
> replaced points
> replaced dizzy cap
> replaced rotor
> replaced plug wires, coil wire
> replaced alternator
> plugs are about 6 months old good color, look fine.
> cleaned and checked advance weights and springs
> cleaned and checked vacuum advance (retard is disconnected)
> cleaned and checked all wires in dizzy, low voltage coil, alternator
> cleaned and checked wires at solenoid
> checked timing and dwell
> balanced carbs
>
> When starting cold (no choke) it idles around 1300 and as it warms it
drifts
> down to about 900. There is an occasional miss and cough from the carbs.
It
> is basically fine till 15 minutes on the freeway or about an hour of city
> traffic. Then I can't maintain an idle. Usually, I can put it high idle
> with the choke and survive. I degreased the engine 3-4 weeks ago and did
> NOT have the problem for about 7 days when it returned. I am running out
of
> things to check/replace.
>
> Jim Altman jaltman@altlaw.com Illigitimi non Carborundum
> http://www.altlaw.com/metro/jaltman.html 69-TR6#CC28754L W4UCK
--
George Richardson
'57 TR3, TS15559L - painting and reassembling....
http://www.merlingroupinc.com/tr3.htm
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