Dan Masters wrote:
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ITEM 3: The hood latch itself was OK, only the cable was stuck somewhere
along
its length. I haven't pulled it yet to see just where. I can't pull the
cable
from under the dash, but I can easily push the cable in at the latch area.
The
weak of heart, or the purist, should not read any further, because I took
drastic action to get the hood open. As Leon mentioned, I bought a 3 inch
hole
saw, chucked it in my Milwaukee right angle drill (there is not enough room
for a normal drill), and drilled a 3 inch hole in the sloping sheet metal,
just above the passenger's footwell and adjacent to the hood latch. I was
able
to stick my hand in and release the catch (I brought along a piece of fuel
hose, which I had split, to put around the hole as a grommet so as not to
slice my arm off as I worked). As I said, the latch was OK - it only took
minimal pressure to release it.
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Dan,
There is a trick to opening the hood (bonnet) when the cable malfunctions
which I have used with good results which is a little more convenient
than a 3 inch hole saw:
Step 1) Remove the glove box (cubby box)
Step 2) Take a large screwdriver and gently pass the blade
through the grommet through which the upper heater
hose passes and fish around until you find the lever
of the latch and open the hood!
I've resorted to this on a couple of occasions such as when I was setting
up my car with redundant hood releases (if you remember form the car show).
Every TR6 owner should familiarize himself (herself) with this procedure.
But leave it to you to turn a lemon into lemonade! Good show!
Dave Massey
St. Louis, MO USA
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8
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