On Tue, 29 Sep 1998 Davgil@aol.com wrote:
> While on a very pleasant drive this weekend, I realized that I was losing the
> pressure on my brake pedal. A quick look revealed that my left rear brakes
> were losing fluid. Since I was a couple of hundred miles from home, I decided
> to keep the reservoir topped off and come on back. My car is a 76 TR-6 (CF
> 52615U).
>
> Last night I made my first venture into the world of brake repairs. I was
> able to determine the cylinder was leaking and after quite a challenge removed
> the cylinder. I anticipate purchasing a re-built cylinder but my questions
> are these:
>
> 1. The entire inside of the drum was liberally coated with a mixture of
> brake fluid, brake dust, road dust, etc. (I guess that this is fluif in its
> solid state). What is the best solvent for cleaning this mess that will not
> encourage future rust and will not leave a film on the drum that will prevent
> the brake shoes from proper friction upon replacement.
I mixed up a mild solution of TSP, dunked the drum for a bit, then hosed
it out. Wiped with a clean rag, and let it dry inside. You might want to
use brake cleaner instead.
> 2. The Haynes manual says to lubricate appropriate points prior to
> reassembly. Should the cylinder be lubricated at the point where it extends
> through the back part of the assembly. It appeared to me that it was free to
> travel, but there was a significant amount of brake fluid around that could
> have been lubricating the whole assembly.
Get the brake fluid off and put a (tiny) amount of grease on the friction
points. Yes, the cylinder should move, but not much. I think you can get
grease specially made for brake drums- I use white grease for the most
part.
> 3. Should I obtain new retaining spring plates, etc. or are the used
>ones
> generally replaced. Should I ask for them by their four letter names? They
> appear to be in good condition.
The things that hold the shoes "in"? You can probably keep them. I've
never got a TR kit, but my Chevette kit included these things when I
bought the return springs. If you need new return springs (rusty or
stretched), then you'll probably get the whole shebang in a kit.
Hmm, it appears that the VB catalog is somewhat vague over parts/spring
availability. Perhaps some other lister can fill in the details...
> 4. Unrelated to the brake problem, the water valve to my heater will
>not
> return to its fully closed position from depressing the knob on the dash. It
> will only travel part of the way then I must manually close it the remainder
> of the way. The cable appears to be long enough and to be properly adjusted,
> but I believe that the pressure required to close the valve is too great for
> the cable, and the cable tends to bend. Is there a way to lubricate this
> valve or should I simply spring for a replacement?
Replacements are expensive and often leak. I think there is a way to
plumb a ball valve and hook it to the bowden without much effort. I am
going to do something like this for my TR4 (the diaphragm inside the
heater valve gave up the ghost long ago... and a new one's $40).
You could try getting a bit of lube inside the works (methinks dry
graphite might be best; won't bugger up the #*&! rubber diaphragm)
-Malcolm
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