On Sat, 19 Sep 1998 DANMAS@aol.com wrote:
> It may be possible to rebuild your headlight switch, depending, of course, on
> what's wrong with it. The nice thing about trying it is that the switch
> function and operation is obvious when you have the switch apart, ie, it will
> be a mechanical problem rather then electrical (other than cleaning the
> contacts, which can be done with a mild abrasive). Give it a try, you have
> nothing to lose. If it is repairable, you can fix it; if not, it will have to
> be scrapped anyway.
I uttered some mild threats at it, and now it works OK. I think there
must have been some condensation on the breaker points (or corrosion), but
they work now.
If they fail again I will be finding a replacement out of the wrecking
yard.
> OTOH, you may want to go with a GM, Ford, or Chrysler switch. I have a GM
> switch in my TR302. One knob on this switch controls the parking light switch,
> headlight switch, dash light dimmer, plus an interior courtesy light switch.
> An extra bonus is the 20 amp circuit breaker for the headlights (you'll need
> to use the existing fuse for the parking lights).
Yes, I'm familar with these (Chevette OEM). However, if you don't know
how to remove the knob, they can be a pain... it's easy if you do tho!
> If you should decide to spring for a new Lucas replacement, they are just as
> reliable as any GM, Ford, or Chrysler switch, and should give you a long
> service life. As a matter of fact, IMHO, the Lucas column mounted switch used
> in the TR6 is of better overall quality than the new GM I'm using (I think the
> TR4 uses the same switch, but I'm not home so I can't check it out).
My TR4 has an early instrument cluster (I think) and thus the main switch
is on the instrument cluster (left of the washer control), and the dimmer
is on the floor (now a Delco product)
-Malcolm
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