On Fri, 18 Sep 1998 JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com wrote:
> Please excuse me for losing track of who initiated this thread; I
> meant to comment a bit earlier.....
> I was wondering about this too for my TR3a, when I read someplace that
> the cars originally were painted with the fenders just loosely
> attached, and then the beading was added and the bolts tightened up.
> It seems like it would solve the question of getting the paint into
> the cracks quite nicely, while avoiding the possibility of scratching
> the newly painted fenders installing them if they were painted off the
> car, so this is the approach I'll take.
If my logic is correct, Triumphs were painted with a baked-on enamel at
the factory.
So anything painted body color had to be heat proof. Methinks the cars
went through the paint booth (and the ovens) with all fixtures attached
except brightwork, drivetrain, suspension, (anything with fluid in it),
interior, etc.
According to jonmac, the cars were pulled through on a trolley. (makes
sense)
Then, once they were enameled, ancillary components were added. That's
why all the bolts for the TR4 splash panel can be reached from the wheel
wells. (not sure if TR3 has a splash panel- behind front wheel..?)
Hmm, anyone know if the factory put any sort of sealer between the fender
and the body? I've heard of "Bostik or a similiar compound" but I could
be wrong. Maybe it's unaffected by high heat.
FWIW, I need to get some sort of sealant for my rear fender. I used roof
tar on the front (because it's coming off again this winter), but I want
to leave the rear on permanent-like. I'd like to know some trade names,
and availability, and any alternate substance that might work.
thanks,
-Malcolm
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http://www3.bc.sympatico.ca/walker/triumph/trfaq.htm
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