A few of you asked me privately to forward responses to my original question
that didn't get sent to the list. I did get several private responses
(thanks!). The consensus has been to use the westwood application tool.
Several people said the one from WaxOyl doesn't cut it. Here's a nice piece
of archived mail that was forwarded to me by tomomalley@hey.net
<mailto:tomomalley@hey.net> .
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 10:27:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "W. Ray Gibbons" <gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu
<mailto:gibbons@northpole.med.uvm.edu> >
Subject: Re: Waxoyl
Roda AC asks if anyone has experience with Waxoyl, now available in the US.
Waxoyl has been available for quite some time to dealers; what is now
available here is 5 liter tins and DIY kits. My 87 Prelude was waxoyled by
the dealer when new, and retreated every 2 yrs by me, and it is still
rust-free in spite of VT's intensive road salting. I like Waxoyl because it
has very little tendency to plug up drain holes-on a hot day after an
application, the excess simply runs out. Hint-don't park on your new
asphalt drive for a while after application, or you will have a mess. I was
sufficiently impressed that I waxoyled every cavity of my bugeye.
Howsomeever, the attraction that one does not need professional equipment is
misleading. The DIY kit I received (about 3 yrs ago) would allow one to
spray onto exposed surfaces fairly well, rather like a pump-up garden
sprayer. I had doubts about how well it coated hidden box sections, because
the applicator squirts the material but does not atomize it. Maybe the DIY
application system has improved, but I was not impressed. I bought better
quality application stuff from Eastman, for use with a compressor. Whatever
you use, heat the waxoyl before application. You can immerse the cans in
buckets of hot water. I use an electric heater beamed on the can. I
generally use waxoyl straight, but I have also at times stretched the
material and improved (I hope) its tendency to wick into seams by thinning
it with motor oil when treating enclosed areas.
IMHO motor oil is a fine rustproofing agent for box cavities, but it is
useless for areas that receive direct road spray and it worsens the tendency
for material to leak out for days after application. On exposed surfaces
that may receive direct spray, I invariably use the waxoyl straight.
With the Eastman equipment, I can inject hot waxoyl into one end of a rocker
and see Waxoyl mist come out 4 feet away :-). With the DIY kit, a lot of it
came out the drain holes onto my feet and I was not confident I had gotten a
continuous coating. Years in the rust belt have convinced me that no
rustproofing works unless the coating is continuous.
Ray Gibbons
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