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Sorry to the list.
Michael:
Tried to respond to your message but came back
as undeliverable. See attachment.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
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Date: Mon, 14 Sep 1998 21:13:32 -0700
From: scott suhring <suhring@lancnews.infi.net>
Organization: InfiNet
To: "Michael D. Porter" <mdporter@rt66.com>
Subject: Re: TR6 Suspension
References: <35FCA275.7E4B@lancnews.infi.net> <35FCA533.50F72073@rt66.com>
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Michael:
Thanks for the thoughtful response and good advice.
Really gives me some other ideas to think about.
The springs seems to be the way I'm leaning. The
price I can get for the Konis will probably make
that decission and I don't anticipate needing to
change the setting. I like the sway bar upgrade,
another post suggested the 7/8 upgrade. Will
seriously consider this. Will try some ideas
with the oil I've gotten.
Thanks again.
Scott Suhring
Elizabethtown, PA
'70 TR6
Michael D. Porter wrote:
>
> scott suhring wrote:
> >
> > It's been a while since I've posted a question to the
> > list, so here is one that has been discussed
> > extensively....
> >
> > I am getting my thoughts together for the winter project,
> > front and rear suspension rebuilds, and have some
> > questions and seeking a list pole.
> >
> > 1. I can get a pair of new Koni shocks from a club
> > member for $60 (both), so that part is answered.
> > For general driving with occassional let it
> > lose back road enjoyment, what is the best setting
> > (I don't want to have to take the springs out
> > every time I want to firm up the shocks).
>
> If I recall correctly, the Konis only have three settings (which they
> describe as soft, normal, and hard... sounds like a Clinton problem to
> me, though <g>). And, I believe you're correct that the shocks have to
> come out to adjust them. That's part of the reason why I bought Spax all
> around for the `70 GT6 I'm building. They have twelve settings, and can
> be adjusted without removal of anything (although it is a bit of a chore
> to get to the adjusting knob between the spring coils). You would
> probably want to run on the normal setting for most driving, since, as I
> understand it, the "hard" setting on the Konis is _really_ hard.
>
> > 2. I would like to keep the leaver shocks in the back
> > but may replace or upgrade the oil. Has anyone done
> > this and what oil did you use?
>
> I once filled the lever shocks on my TR4 with STP... I don't recommend
> it for anything, not even racing. Within three blocks, my kidneys were
> alternating between my ankles and my throat.... <g> Whatever oil you
> choose, I believe someone mentioned that a competition valve was
> available for them, and that would be worth looking into. Whatever you
> do, check with others on the list and elsewhere for oil compatibility
> with the seals. They may only be suitable for a non-mineral base oil.
>
> > 3. Now for the big drum role....I am at the crossroad
> > for what springs to get. I spoke to a well versed TR6
> > mechanic who suggested stock on the front and upgraded
> > sem-competition for the rear (I'm not using his exact
> > words but you get the idea). He also suggested that
> > if you don't have much squat, don't replace them. Any
> > experience with the life of springs (I have 123,000+ miles
> > on mine and can't speak for how it was previously driven).
> > Your thoughts and experience with the front and rear
> > springs will be much appreciated.
>
> The general rule of thumb these days is for softer springs, and stiffer
> shocks. There's some sense in that, even for F1 cars. Really stiff
> springs put tremendous loads into the frame and the shock loads can be
> terrific. And, because the rate is high, although it can absorb big
> loads on jounce without bottoming out, that also means the rebound rate
> is high, as well. In normal driving, that means that little bumps are
> big shudders, and big bumps want to put the car airborne.... <g> Only
> way to control really stiff springs is with really stiff shocks, and
> then the whole car begins to approximate a go-kart. Best money spent is
> on a stiffer sway bar in front. The trick to that is to call Amco, get
> the correct number for the one you want, then call J.C. Whitney, and buy
> it from them. About $40-50 cheaper. When I bought the front bar for the
> `70, it was $89.95 from Whitney, and $150 from VB. Same part.
>
> As for the life of the springs, I think that depends heavily on how
> they've been treated in the past. The `70 GT6 I bought had about 130,000
> miles on it, and I figured the front springs must be tired by that time,
> so I bought a new set.... When I got them and compared them with the new
> ones, the free length was exactly the same. If the springs had started
> to sag, the free length undoubtedly would have been shorter. This is one
> you can probably wait on until you get the suspension apart, and take
> some measurements and decide then. I think the factory manuals list the
> free and/or installed lengths of the springs.
>
> > 4. I am replacing all the bushings and collars, etc......
>
> Always a good idea... am looking at doing that to the `72 GT6 daily
> driver soon (well, as soon as I can get enough time off from work to do
> it <g>).
>
> Cheers, Scott.
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