Fred,
When I rebuilt the front end of my 1959 TR3A, I also didn't see any features
that would allow for either a castor or camber adjustment (I always get the
two mixed up). I don't think Triumph had such features until the TR4A, where
adjustment shims were built into the inboard side of the lower wishbone arm
assemblies.
Sometimes a bad toe-in adjustment can cause the passenger side (frequently
unoccupied) tire to scrub. If this is the case you should see considerable
feathering in the tread wear.
Assuming that's ok, incorrect castor/camber is likely due to accidental
damage. I'd recommend you take it to a good alignment shop. Have them
measure the castor and camber, and compare to specs. The Triumph Service
Instruction Manual has dimensioned drawings of the front suspension components
to allow you to see if they're damaged. My guess is that either your
vertical link or your stub axle is bent. If it's the stub axle, I'd replace
it to avoid bearing problems. A good alignment shop will NOT recommend
cutting and re welding, but heating and bending (your vertical link, for
example). On earlier Ford trucks with the "twin I-beam" independent front
suspension, it was routine to make adjustments by bending the I-beam.
Cutting and re welding sounds like the last resort, if not one step beyond.
Hope this helps,
Bill Babbitt
TR3A in a bag (hopefully not for ever)
Gales Ferry, CT
In a message dated 9/7/98 6:55:54 AM, vafred@erols.com wrote:
>
>Listers, 59 T/R 3-A, everything in the F.E. is new, I do not have enough
>camber on the R.F. (pass) wheel, so this is wearing only the very outside
>tread off the tire, the three inner threads have almost no wear. I have
>not puilled it apart yet, but I cannot see any shims on the ball joint at
>the control arm hook-up, or should there be any ?? Also if shims are
>needed to move the control arm over the space on the ball joint does not
>seem to have enough thread to do this, any hints or advice as how to
>solve this. One F.E. mechanic suggested I cut the control arm 1/8" and
>then reweld it, I'm not to happy with cutting a factory made F.E part for
>safety reasons, also not sure you can still reconnect the ball joint to
>it. Any advice or is there something I'm overlooking and not aware of.
>TIA "FT"
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