On 4 Sep 1998, Barry Schwartz wrote:
> I can't give you a spec for lateral runout (is this the spec your are
> talking about) off hand,
I found some myself in the Triumph repair manuals (why hadn't I though of
that before):
The 2000 manual specifies 1.8 mm for run out and ovality for disc wheels.
The TR6 manual specifies 1.14 mmm for wobble and eccentricity for
disc wheels, and 1.27 mm for wire wheels.
The wheel with the 2.5 mm wobble was quite horrible. Although not unsafe,
I'd imagine. But 2.5 is not THAT far from 1.8 specified for the car with
the suspension geometry I have (although with a more forgiving steering
rack).
And, as mentioned, the wheels with 1.0 mm, well within all specs, are not
perfect either.
Is it me just getting overly sensitive towards these things since I had
new wheels put on? Should I tolerate a vibration being felt through the
steering wheel?
(My previous cast aluminum wheels did have a pronounced vibration, but
since they were very old and presumably have lived a hard live I could
live with that...)
> but as far as truing the wheels, it's my
> understanding that you do not true them in the same sense as bicycle or
> even possibly motorcycle wheels are trued (worked in a bike shop for five
> years, and trued many a rim!). The automobile rim itself must be true and
> the spokes are tightened to the same tightness or "pitch" when you ping
> them.
The wheels I tried did for the most part not contain any "bumps" that you
can find on a bicycle wheel. It was more a question of the entire rim
being straight as such, but skewed in comparison to the wheel centre.
I.e. the dial indicator went from 0 on one side, gradually to +1mm on the
opposite side, and then back again.
Egil
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