> 1) stock springs or something stiffer? As a daily driver I am not interested
> making the suspension any harder than it has to be. On the other hand I
> don't really like the rear end sag on acceleration.
TRF's Handling kit RFK777 springs are abusive and raised my car an inch. I
removed them after a year and put the old springs back in - yellow stripe
competition springs - a much better ride. Anyone in the LA area want to buy the
four slightly used RFK777 springs? I think the rear end sag can be cured by the
shocks.
> 2) what kind of bushings for the trailing arm? rubber are probably softer
> and lead to a softer ride but wear out better and faster. Urethane (sp?)
> harder and longer lasting. One factor to consider is that I have be able to
> put them with my C Clamp and assorted sockets as a press.
a 2 ft lenght of 3/8 inch threaded rod is a great way to install and remove the
rubber busings. My second trailing arm took 15 minutes for both bushings. The
non-rubber bushings are typically 2 piece, which should make for easier
installation.
> I already have new u-joints on the rear shafts.
don't forget to lube them while it's easy
> Is it really necessary to remove the rear shafts if don't really remove the
> trailing arm to replace the bushings, or is that folly and I should really
> take it out?
You have to disconnect them to change the springs. I'd pull them to make it
easier to change the bushings. Don't forget to look up the proper torque for
the hub to the studs in the trailing arm - their only 15-20 ft lb if I remember
correctly. It also gives you access to the outer u-joint and the rubber boots.
How old are your brake flex hoses? Easy project while your at it.
Brian Kemp
72 TR6 - rear suspension rebuilt last fall
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