> Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experiance with
> the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part # 5-6025. It is listed on
> page 11 in the summer catalog.......
I put similar brackets on my car. They are the easiest design to fit, taking
about 30 minutes to install. I purchased my brackets from someone who made them
for his car for $40. I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each. The VB
shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price tag. My driving can often
be
aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd place in class at last Moss
festival). The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may
just not know any better. The PO put Koni's on the front.
Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my
lever
shocks were dead. I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds
to
the lever shocks. Doing it again, I'd give this serious thought.
Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is the
tube shock. I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free
replacement). I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's oil
on
the tube. This tension is transferred through the shock to the bracket, at a
slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the shocks and rear
differential mounts. I mention this because I just discovered several broken
welds including both rear differential mounts and the crossemember to frame
connection near the right shock mount. The car had the differential reinforcing
brackets installed for the DPO. I don't know if the shock conversion caused
this,
but I think it aggravated the problem. (Any comments on this from others?)
- You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket
if
you have lots of camber or weak springs.
Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the
shock.
The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone. Your shocks should
be
double nutted. I used a nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should
work.
- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing. I have a little bit on the right
side
recently, but nothing I'm concerned about. I can't see any indication on the
tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket. I run 205/65 tires and will adjust
the camber on the right tire.
If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.
Drop
me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again. It's off 50's Studabakers
and Cadilacs if I remember correctly.
The Moss kit is an effort to install. It has three triangular brackets per
side.
One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the fuel tank,
and
the third in the wheel well area. The first step in the instructions was to
remove the fuel tank.
I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body. The dampening forces need
to go to the frame.
Hope the above helps.
Brian Kemp
72 TR6
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