What did you pay for your gun?, HOw big a compressor do you have, gallons, HP?
Thanks for all the info!!!
Jack
76 TR6
80 Spitfire
80 TR8
At 12:43 AM 8/30/98 +0200, you wrote:
>
>Jack Levy - Computer Consultants - Hwd. FL schrieb:
>>
>> With all this talk about HVLP this and that... What is the minimum that
>> someone with a decent compressor (me 4 HP Crafstman) would need to get
>> started. I want to paint my Spitfire, I was quoted $1700 without painting
>> the engine compartment. How about where to paint, how hard is it outside,
>> how long does it take to dry. I looked at Fred Thomas' suggestion
>> (http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Spray_101/wwwboard.html) it's very
>> informative. In a nutshell what would some of you recommend.
>>
>> Jack
>>
>> 76 TR6
>> 80 Spitfire
>> 80 TR8
>>
>>
>
>I have just finished painting my TR 6 outside part by part. I tryed a lot of
>things, made many mistakes, learnd a lot by doing and found at last a way that
>workes very good for me even outside. I`ll tell you how I did it.
>
>
>My TR 6 was a rasther worn out car which was imported from South Carolina with:
>
>little rustholes in the floor panels
>
>little bubbles on the front wing around headlights.
>At some time a new painting was sprayed over the factory paint and there
were a
>lot of cracks, looking like spider webs.
>
>At the time of buying my TR 6 I didnīt think of any trouble involved with the
>bubbles and cracks in the painting. I wanted to paint it anyway. But I
found out
>that both things are indicators of big trouble to come.
>
>The bubbles mean that rust has gone throuh the body from inside to outside and
>new metal is needed. The cracks indicated a lot of putty under the painting
and
>at last an accident. The car was hit front left, rear left and left side door
>and wings and after this it was "repaired" by a putty artist. Next time I
buy a
>car I need to have a magnet with me.
>
>That far about my starting point.
>
>The right way to do most of the body job DIY at home and outside is:
>
>Remove all wings, doors, bonnet and hood lid. Check for rust and former
repairs.
>Decide now if you want to repair/reuse it or if you better get a new one.
>
>Remove undercoating if it is in places where rust repairs will take place.
>
>Give the removed parts to a good sandblaster shop and have the rusted
places and
>all outside edges blasted to bare metal. Good painting on the inner areas can
>stay in place. This way you can see what is under the painting at the starting
>places of rust. I stopped sandblasting myself infront of my garage after I
found
>out that it took me twice as long to get myself clean after sandblasting than
>the sandblasting lasted. BTW the professional job is not that expensive and
they
>have the right equipment and blasting materials from glasspearls to ironballs
>for all kinds of old parts. After this it will probably be necessary to do
some
>welding and tin work.
>
>After this is done you will have to brush or spray anti rust primer on the
bare
>metal. Always use silicon/oil remover fluid first before applying any primer,
>filler, painting .
>
>After this apply filler on the whole surface which will be painted. Treat old,
>intact painting areas with 400 wet sanding paper first.
>
>Spray on new painting. Use a good 2 K acrylic paint. Dry in about 1/2 hour.
>Hard enough for handling in about 5 hours. If it gets in contact with old
>painting make trials if old and new paint behave neutral (OK) or if something
>else happens (not OK, then all old paint has to be removed). Donīt be cheap
with
>the paint gun. I use a SATA gun made of stainless steel and the gaskets are
>teflon. If a paint gun doesnīt work right and relyable all the preparing work
>for painting is worth nothing. You have to start again with sanding some other
>day and the expensive paint is wasted.
>
>Also use a water trap on your compressor.
>
>Always use primer, filler, paint and cellulose putty from one company. You can
>use cellulose putty on primer, filler and sanded paint to smoothen uneven
>spots.It canīt be used on bare metal and needs no filler after sanding.
>Polyester putty can be used on bare metal and needs filler after sanding.
>
>I do my painting outside. The ground has to be wet to keep dust on the
floor. No
>new cars should be nearby and no neighbours laundry in sight. In fact it helps
>if you donīt have close neighbours or at least to be sure they are out.
>
>Spray 3 or more layers of paint just as written in the data sheet of the paint
>maker.
>
>Use a good respirator.
>
>Give it time to get dry. Donīt worry about the flys and maybe dust on
>your new painting. Just wait until it is completly hard(1 day).
>
>Apply 800 wet-sandpaper an the whole painted surface. Now the flys and
>dust parts are no longer there or visible. Be carefull not to get through the
>new painting layers.
>
>Spray 2 K acrylic clear paint on your part
>
>After itīs dry and hard sand with 2000 wet sandpaper
>
>Use 3M finishing paste on the complete painted surface. Polish by hand or
with
>an electric tool.-------Makes very high glosss surface
>
>Apply a good auto wax without silicon.
>
>Super high gloss body job finished.
>
>If a car is not that badly rusted as my TR 6 was painting can be done with
wings
>etc. in place. But one should be sure that there is no rust.
>
>BTW I got most of the tips from interviewing body shop owners.
>
>I hope my experiences help someone to get quicker a high quality DIY painting.
>
>Gerhard
>
>CC 31998 LO
>
>
>
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