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Re: TR4 - Engine Noise Problem Found

To: Brian Sanborn <sanborn@net1plus.com>
Subject: Re: TR4 - Engine Noise Problem Found
From: Alan Myers <reagntsj@ricochet.net>
Date: Thu, 27 Aug 1998 02:41:29 -0700
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Organization: Coldwell Banker Residential Real Estate
References: <001601bdd153$7583bae0$4f9dc8d0@sbu-sanbornb3>
Brian,

Glad you found the problem!

Regarding the cork... based on it's commission number, your car should
not have a PCV valve (or any other form of emission control), just a
crankcase breather pipe on the LH rear of the motor, and a slip-on oil
filler cap that "breathes" through somthing that looks like coarse steel
wool. In the middle of the valve cover you should see a brass plug.  Do
you have a newer engine installed?

Regarding the offending distributor: the question is do you want to
retain originality or not? The stock dizzy's are pretty good. I always
liked the ratchet  adjustment.  Mallory or other aftermarket are
primarily an important upgrade needed with other performance engine/carb
modifications. What's your agenda?

Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602

Brian Sanborn wrote:

> Well the cigar and what's behind curtain number 3 goes to Michael
> Porter!!!
>
> As he suggested, I retarded the timing a little and the noise was
> harder to
> bring on.  I then dialed it back to 0 degrees and took of the off the
> vacuum
> advance line and bingo.... I could drive really aggressively without a
>
> noise.  If I really put it to the floor and cranked it up,  I could
> start
> the noise up a little.
>
> I NEED TO  GO BACK TO TIMING SCHOOL
>
> When I first did the points and plugs I set the timing statically and
> twisted in the turns for advance.  Then hooked up the timing light and
> saw
> the timing mark about and 1 - 1 1/4 inch to the right of the pointer.
> The
> car ran great.  Since I retarded back to no advance... the engine runs
>
> fine.. sounds a little different.... but pulls strong without the
> vacuum
> advance connected.  I can't believe that the engine should be that
> tolerant
> of the vast differences in timing.  I did get some afterrun when I
> turned
> off the key after a drive in the retarded setting.
>
> Don't forget from previous post that the distributor is installed off
> one
> tooth to the counter clockwise direction.  I don't think this should
> effect
> timing as long as it is turned to the 7:30 position... really don't
> know.  I
> will correct on Saturday.
>
> I found something else... I found a cork in the intake manifold
> fitting for
> the PCV valve.  Removed and the engine idle increased and I adjusted
> it back
> down.  Would this have created abnormal vacuum pressures?
>
> What are the recommendations... buy a new Mallory distributor.
> Rebuild the
> current one.  Or learn how to time the engine correctly
>
> Thanks to all you guys that helped with the diagnosis
>
> Brian Sanborn
> 62 TR4          CT16260L  - Groton,  MA
> sanborn@net1plus.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Porter <mdporter@rt66.com>
> To: sanborn@net1plus.com <sanborn@net1plus.com>
> Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 4:22 AM
> Subject: Re: TR4 - Engine Noise Problem(long)
>
> >sanborn@net1plus.com wrote:
> >
> >when I give it lots of gas pedal I hear a loud banging noise that
> sounds
> >like the hood "prop up" rod rattling on the wheel well or something
> like
> >that.  There is some added vibration that goes with the added power,
> but
> >not unusual.  The noise is not the bearing noise I have heard before
> in
> >my life, which sounds like the muted sound of a hammer on a big
> anvil.
> >
> >The car's timing is probably off by a mile with the sloppy
> distributor.
> >This description is precisely that of severe pre-ignition or possibly
>
> >detonation. Way, way too much advance for the load placed on it. If
> it
> >goes through the same rpm range without the noise on very light
> >throttle, or the noise diminishes after retarding the static timing,
> >that's your answer.
> >
> >Cheers.
> >



--
MZ




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