Brian,
Glad you found the problem!
Regarding the cork... based on it's commission number, your car should
not have a PCV valve (or any other form of emission control), just a
crankcase breather pipe on the LH rear of the motor, and a slip-on oil
filler cap that "breathes" through somthing that looks like coarse steel
wool. In the middle of the valve cover you should see a brass plug. Do
you have a newer engine installed?
Regarding the offending distributor: the question is do you want to
retain originality or not? The stock dizzy's are pretty good. I always
liked the ratchet adjustment. Mallory or other aftermarket are
primarily an important upgrade needed with other performance engine/carb
modifications. What's your agenda?
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602
Brian Sanborn wrote:
> Well the cigar and what's behind curtain number 3 goes to Michael
> Porter!!!
>
> As he suggested, I retarded the timing a little and the noise was
> harder to
> bring on. I then dialed it back to 0 degrees and took of the off the
> vacuum
> advance line and bingo.... I could drive really aggressively without a
>
> noise. If I really put it to the floor and cranked it up, I could
> start
> the noise up a little.
>
> I NEED TO GO BACK TO TIMING SCHOOL
>
> When I first did the points and plugs I set the timing statically and
> twisted in the turns for advance. Then hooked up the timing light and
> saw
> the timing mark about and 1 - 1 1/4 inch to the right of the pointer.
> The
> car ran great. Since I retarded back to no advance... the engine runs
>
> fine.. sounds a little different.... but pulls strong without the
> vacuum
> advance connected. I can't believe that the engine should be that
> tolerant
> of the vast differences in timing. I did get some afterrun when I
> turned
> off the key after a drive in the retarded setting.
>
> Don't forget from previous post that the distributor is installed off
> one
> tooth to the counter clockwise direction. I don't think this should
> effect
> timing as long as it is turned to the 7:30 position... really don't
> know. I
> will correct on Saturday.
>
> I found something else... I found a cork in the intake manifold
> fitting for
> the PCV valve. Removed and the engine idle increased and I adjusted
> it back
> down. Would this have created abnormal vacuum pressures?
>
> What are the recommendations... buy a new Mallory distributor.
> Rebuild the
> current one. Or learn how to time the engine correctly
>
> Thanks to all you guys that helped with the diagnosis
>
> Brian Sanborn
> 62 TR4 CT16260L - Groton, MA
> sanborn@net1plus.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael D. Porter <mdporter@rt66.com>
> To: sanborn@net1plus.com <sanborn@net1plus.com>
> Date: Wednesday, August 26, 1998 4:22 AM
> Subject: Re: TR4 - Engine Noise Problem(long)
>
> >sanborn@net1plus.com wrote:
> >
> >when I give it lots of gas pedal I hear a loud banging noise that
> sounds
> >like the hood "prop up" rod rattling on the wheel well or something
> like
> >that. There is some added vibration that goes with the added power,
> but
> >not unusual. The noise is not the bearing noise I have heard before
> in
> >my life, which sounds like the muted sound of a hammer on a big
> anvil.
> >
> >The car's timing is probably off by a mile with the sloppy
> distributor.
> >This description is precisely that of severe pre-ignition or possibly
>
> >detonation. Way, way too much advance for the load placed on it. If
> it
> >goes through the same rpm range without the noise on very light
> >throttle, or the noise diminishes after retarding the static timing,
> >that's your answer.
> >
> >Cheers.
> >
--
MZ
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