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Re: Volvo t'stat -> Triumph

To: "triumph list" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>, <JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com>
Subject: Re: Volvo t'stat -> Triumph
From: "DON BOYD, JOAN IKOMA" <dbji@whidbey.net>
Date: Fri, 28 Aug 1998 00:58:54 -0700
James;
        The bypass in a B18/20 engine is internal and directly below the the
thermostat . It goes vertically down to the pump. I dont think were talking
about a t-stat that functions the same as a TR3 unit, however, I'm willing
to admit I aint got all the answers. The stock thermostat has a spring
loaded plate on the bottom of the" wax" housing that, when the t-stat
opens, covers the tube leading down into the pump. Ive got a TR 3 and a 65
122S in my driveway, and I dont see how these to thermostats can
interchange without mods. My recomendation is to partially block the
bypass, install a standard t-stat(investigate the HP chevy one avalible
from Stant) . Or (what I'm going to do) pay XK Unlimited $27 and get thiers
to see if it will work.
        BTW, B20's wern't avalible in 122s, and in 1800's only after 68. I 
think I
like the B18's better.   
I can get you all the B18/B20 t-stats you want, but I don't think you want
them.

Don Boyd
----------
> From: JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com
> To: dbji@whidbey.net
> Subject: Volvo t'stat -> Triumph
> Date: Tuesday, August 25, 1998 6:47 AM
> 
>      Don,
>      I'm a former Volvo addict that broke my habit, only to get hooked on
LBCs. 
>      On my desk sits a skirted thermostat from either a P1800S or a 122;
B20B 
>      anyway. The outer diameter, near as I can tell without calipers, is
52 mm. 
>      and it fits well into my TR3, so I plan to use it as it's still
functional.
>      When open, the diameter the water will flow through is about 37 mm,
which 
>      apparently is sufficient.
>      I have contacted IPD; no luck there. Scott Cameron there did know
what I 
>      meant; he has one on his 122, but they don't carry them. He
suggested 
>      trying Victoria British......I suspect these thermostats just aren't
made 
>      anymore, but maybe they are, someplace.
>      Meanwhile, the best idea I think I've heard is finding a washer of
just the 
>      right dimensions and placing it at the outlet (inlet?) of the
thermostat 
>      housing where the bypass tube goes on. Maybe a drop of JB Weld to
hold it 
>      in place would be in order. 
>      I have saved an article from an Australian enthusiast who believes
at 
>      least a 3/8" opening should be maintained. I do think these engines 
>      have tendencies toward hot spots and if it were me I'd err on the
side 
>      of caution, and go with the bigger hole.
>      Anyway, if you have any leads on NOS B20B thermostats it seems there

>      are a bunch of listers who'd snap them up.
>      Regards,
>      Jim Wallace 
>      ********************************
>      
>      From: "DON BOYD, JOAN IKOMA" <dbji@whidbey.net>
>      Subject: Re: TR2/3/4 - Blocking the Bypass: hole or not?
>      
>      All most all cars have some sort of bypass. Many american cars have
water 
>      circulating through the heater core all the time. Most import cars
deal 
>      with it with a bypass hose, but there are some  exceptions. Some
dont have 
>      anything to circulate the water when warming up, but mostly this is
poor 
>      enginering. Some companies anticipate where the hot spots would be
and put 
>      aditional material/larger water jackets there. They figure the heads
won't 
>      crack until the warantee runs out. ;-)
>      I think the 1/4 hole in the bypass tube is the right solution. If
someone 
>      will send me a defunct Tr 3 bypass cutoff type t-stat, I'll tell the
list 
>      if any Volvo / VW ones will work.
>      
>      Don Boyd 

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