Hi Ian,
My '62 has been stored in a garage 5 yrs & for 6 yrs before that in the
near equivalent of a barn in Colorado (low humidity). Except for a year
in a garage undergoing my youthful version of a restoration, it was on
the road from '64 to '86 & outside a lot.. Yes, it has some surface rust
on the frame, but appears to have nothing very serious so far. (The body
is a different matter, mostly due to the usual brake fluid leaks &
battery fumes.)
I would do minor "3 side" preventative work now and wait until the
body-off to do a more thorough job. Minimize the wire brushing. There
are some spray-on rust-killers (Moss offers one in their catalogue, also
check your local hardware store) which can stop and help prevent future
rust. Spray on a coat of primer and a finish coat. Even if you can only
treat 3 sides, they are the exposed sides and, for cosmetic reasons, I'd
try to keep them as clear of rust as possible until you are ready to do
the job in two years. .
Here's a short version of what I plan during the current body-off
restoration on my car. Keep in mind I've owned this car for 25 years &
plan to drive it for another 25!
Once the frame is stripped, I'll have it straightened & trued, then do
some gusseting & thoroughly check all old welds & joints. After that,
sand blasting. Bare metal will be prepped with Muriatic acid to kill any
remaining rust. As to finishes, I haven't decided yet on a two part
paint (epoxy or Imron) or powder coating. Powder coating will require
the frame to be more thoroughly stripped so it can be put in an oven for
curing, but it's about the most permanent coating possible. But, two
part paint is pretty hard to work with too.
As to the suspension, I've thoroughly cleaned & stripped as I go . I'd
suggest having critical parts (like wishbones) crack checked (i.e.
Magnafluxing) before refinishing. Anything cracked, repair or replace.
I've tried painting with low gloss engine paint. Seems to hold up well
to grease & oil, however it scratches easily & I'm now thinking of
powder coating instead. For flexing parts like coil springs, I'm
experimenting with a rubberized paint. It's really slow to dry, but
makes sense, it it works as advertised.
Best paint to use? IMHO, in order of durability, "worst to best": 1.
engine enamel 2. two part paint 3. powder coating.
A note about powder coating. One of the local TR club members has had
some of the interior parts coated (hood sticks, steering column). They
look great & are very durable.
BTW, I sell real estate, not powder coating or any other product
mentioned. Cheers!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602
(I am the DPO!)
. canada wrote:
> I keep my 76 TR6 garaged, but the recent PO kept it in a barn for
> several years. Almost zero body rust, but there is very light to light
> surface rust on about 30 % of the frame. The rust can "easily" be
> removed with a wire brush and all the metal and welds are rock solid.
> Ultimately, I will want to completely seal the frame and never have to
> worry about it again. In two years or so, I plan to pull the engine
> for a major rebuild and will paint the body at that time as well.
>
> I am currently working under the car replacing bushings, shocks
> springs etc. I donıt really want to, but I COULD spend a few more
> weeks down there wire-brushing, priming (POR 15) and painting exposed
> areas of the frame. Before I commit to that, however, I have several
> questions:
>
> How much do I need to worry about surface rust on the frame?
>
> With the body on the car, I obviously wonıt be able to seal the top
> surfaces of the frame. Would sealing 3 sides now be worth the effort?
>
> Would it make more sense to wait two years, pull the body and do the
> frame right at that time?
>
> Finally, which parts of the suspension should be painted? Whatıs the
> best paint to use underneath?
>
> Any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
>
> Ian CF57345U
--
MZ
|