Gano, Ken wrote:
> The type of engine stand need is related to the job to be done. The Chinese
> roll around type can't be beat for the front half of the engine and 80 to
> 90% of what needs to be done. The problem is, that other 10 - 20 percent
> (installing flywheel, mounting transmission, clutch, etc.) requires
> something else.
My solution to the above problem: I removed as much as possible, including
pistons, with the engine
on the stand so I could rotate everything. Then I put some boards across the
back of my station wagon (a pickup would also work), rotated the engine top
down, and pushed it in the back of the car. I then jacked up the back of the
car till the stand went in the air. I removed the engine stand, lowered the
car, removed the mounting bracket, flywheel, endplate, crankshaft, etc. I then
had the bare block, which I could lift myself. WARNING: the block is heavy.
Use proper lifting procedure and get help if needed.
Reassembly went similar. I set the block top down on the boards, installed the
crankshaft, rear seals, end plate, and flywheel. Next the swivel bracket was
mounted to the engine, the car was jacked up, the stand slid on to the bracket,
and the car lowered. I could then wheel around the engine and finish assembly.
I again borrowed the hoist and hoisted the engine off the stand, installed the
clutch and transmission, then dropped the engine in the car.
The whole thing was a solo effort, except for getting the engine in/out of the
car. I needed the hoist and helper twice for a couple hours each. There is a
picture of my Subaru engine stand at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~bk13/engstand.jpg
Brian Kemp
72 TR6
91 Subaru Legacy Wagon temporary engine lift/stand
|
