Chris,
I would suggest you find a Weber tuning expert in your area to get yours
set up properly. There will be variation from car to car depending on
many engine factors. Also there will be differences due to altitude,
etc. I am shortly going to be doing this with my car, as I moved it from
"mile-high" Colorado to San Jose, Calif. alt. 50-100 ft.
Maybe some of the listers know of someone in your area. I just found
someone about 20 miles from my home.
One of the great things about Webers is that once they are set up, they
don't have that many moving parts & don't change unless other physical
factors (i.e. altitude, engine set up) change.
I have used Webers with the stock distributor and I'll spend the money
for a full mechanical advance unit such as Mallory (approx. $200). No,
you cannot just disconnect the vac. adv. I don't know the technical part
of this, but I know the car runs very differently. You will have
effectively de-tuned the car.
Webers pretty much require a header system and free-flow exhaust.
Also recommended is a hotter cam shaft, which in turn will often include
milling the head .090 to .125 to increase compression to take full
advantage of the cam. I have run with stock cam and it is ok, but I was
running higher compression.
Also, since we've gone to all this trouble, porting, polishing and
matching of the manifolds is a good idea. All of this is boosting the
horsepower to 130 or 140, so the rest of the engine had better be pretty
strong, any weak link will show up pretty quickly!
The original fuel pump should work fine with a regulator. I had to lower
fuel pressure, not increase it. I ended up with an electric unit anyway,
but not due to the Webers.
Of the above, the only "must do's" are the mechanical advance
distributor and the headers. My current "free-flow exhaust" involves a
2-1/2" pipe and a Ford muffler. Believe me, I'll be upgrading that, too!
Fyi, once I switched to Webers, I found the car extremely reliable
starting and running. I'm really looking forward to my current
restoration, doing some things better this time and taking more full
advantage of the carburators' full potential.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602
Chris Lillja wrote:
> Could anyone who has put 2 Weber DCOE 40's on their TR 4 cyl (TR
> 3,4,4A) let me know what
> venturi, main jets, idle jet ect. worked best for them?
>
> Just if any one wrote it down, I would be super grateful if you could
> send it my way. I
> just looking for a baseline. I have a Weber book with this info, but
> I'd be receptive
> to other opinions...
>
> I recently got a set for my Spitfire (which won't be ready for a few
> years) and I'd hate
> leave 'em on the shelf, although they sure look good there....
>
> I know about most of the stuff I'll need. Manifolds, linkage, ect. Any
> other advice?
> Anyone use their original dizzy and block off the vac advance? Anyone
> use their original
> fuel pump with a regulator?
>
> Thanks in advance....
>
> Almost out of the corner....
>
> Christopher M.Lillja
> Marketing Associate
> Princeton University Press
> Tel:609 258 4900
> Fax:609 258 6305
--
MZ
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