Malcolm;
Been there done that. Just not on your car. Good place to start looking
for the pulley is a industrial hardware store. Go equipped with the
thickness, shaft dia and belt width. Decide what pully ratio you want, or
just guess at a smaller size. The stock GM size would be a good start
because the crank pulleys on our cars are smaller, so even though we rev
our cars harder, the alt probably will remain in a safe range. Pulleys come
in pressed and welded steel , cast iron, and billet steel. Get billet
steel. It will cost you about $9.65 (if mem is correct) If the bore is to
small on the pulley don't worry , just have a machine shop bore it out.
Ditto if it is to thick. Don't bother yourself about keyways, many modern
cars no longer use with them. If the holding nut is torqued correctly,
they're not necessary . I've also machined alum pulleys for my racer, but
this wouldn't be a good long term street solution.
Don Boyd
----------
> From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
> To: The Usual Suspects <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: gen / alt. pulley
> Date: Sunday, August 09, 1998 10:49 AM
>
>
> All this talk about Lucas, generators, etc. has made me feel a bit guilty
> about having a Big Whonkin' Chevy alternator in my TR4. Almost.
>
> Does anyone know where I can get a smaller pulley for this device? Right
> now it seems to have the original Triumph pulley - for a generator, and
> hence a bit too big. As such the red light tends to stay on at idle, it
> goes out when the rev go up, but sometimes comes back on at low speeds.
>
> As an alternative, I can wait another month or so and get ahold of the
> metalwork shop at the nearest high school and have them turn me one. If
I
> do this, what is the best way? (Dan, you watching? I know you had a
> custom set built) Steel? Billet aluminum? Cast aluminum? A brown
paper
> package tied up with string?
>
> thanks in advance,
> -Malcolm
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