Hello Tom,
I ended up with 16 GA because that was the largest the local sheet metal
shop stocked. The reason for that is that 16 GA is the heaviest that their
tools (brake, shear, etc.) can handle. I really think it'll be plenty
strong enough. The weak area is only about a foot in diameter, and I'll
use plenty of rivets, so there'll be lots of support. The weak area is not
where the weight of my feet will be, near the pedals, but rather about half
way between there and the seat.
I have decided not to use tar. I have spray rustproofing I will use as a
sealer and as rustproofing. Believe me, if I ever hit the lottery and
decide to do it right, the car needs a lot more than just new floors.
Sumner
----------
> From: Tom O'Malley <tomomalley@hey.net>
> To: Sumner Weisman <sweisman@gis.net>
> Subject: Re: New Floor
> Date: Wednesday, August 05, 1998 8:58 PM
>
> On Mon, 3 Aug 1998 19:55:13 -0400, you wrote:
>
> >
> >Since I am "welding impaired" I have bought a new pop rivet gun and some
> >steel rivets, and am ready to replace the weak driver's side floor in my
> >TR-3. Per the List's advice, I will seal it with roof tar first.
> >
> >I plan on having a sheet metal shop cut me a piece of galvanized iron.
If
> >anybody's interested, the dimensions are 15 X 21 inches. Does anyone
have
> >a feel for how thick it ought to be? I'm thinking somewhere between 12
and
> >16 gauge.
> >
> >Sumner Weisman
> >62 TR-3B
>
> Most LBC floors are only 20 ga <.036> though I confess I've never
> measured a TR3.
>
> Problem is...the strength comes from pattern pressed into the pan.
> You won't have this with your new "metal" so thicker might be better.
>
> Seam sealer might be better if you think that you're gonna go back in
> a year or two and have real floors put in. The tar is effective but a
> real bear to get off later on...
>
> Cheers!
> Tom O'Malley in Southbridge Massachusetts
> '74, '77 Spits
>
|