I would like to thank all who responded to my request for information about
the possible cause of the misfire I've been experiencing with my TR6.
The following are the responses for those who may be interested.
G'day
run a compression test for me will ya.
spark plug died.
May be a burnt valve . best bet
Spark plugs too hot a heat range? can burn a hole in top of piston!
Tony Cotton
It could be bad ignition wires. I had to replace mine recently and the
symptom was intermittent misfiring. Then again, it might not be the
electrical system at all. I had one car that behaved similarly when
under
load or going up a hill, and it turned out to be the fuel pump. Just a
thought or two...
I recently put new ignition wires in, and it made a big difference!
Resistance type wires are only good for 2 or 3 years.
Sumner Weisman
********************************************88
I too had a similarish problem; my '6 would run ok (apart from a flat spot
in acceleration - more later) during the day, but at night the damn thing
(I hope it's not listening) would cough and splutter. After stripping the
alternator, charging the battery (several times to bring it up to correct
charge), getting it professionally tuned etc, I tracked the problem to
the ammeter (only after I shorted something out & blew the ammeter
up). The oil pressure gauge had, at some time prior to my ownership of
the car, sprayed oil all over the back of the dash & also got into the
contacts at the back of the ammeter. This, combined with all the other
gunk that seems attracted to oil & backs of dashes reduced the
conductivity of the contacts to produce the coughing and spluttering
with the lights on (ie higher current draw). I only worked this out after
getting crap all over my hands shorting out the three leads at the back
of the ammeter & deciding to clean up the terminals so I could drive
the car.
My '6 does, however, still have a flat spot in acceleration, which according
to the pros I took it to is caused by the fuel metering unit (they adjusted
the timing, checked fuel pressure, injectors, etc, but it still has the flat
spot). By the look of the exhaust pipe, and the spark plugs it's running
quite rich (I was hoping they'd be able to correct this, but they have to
farm out the metering units work to someone else because of lack of
equipment, even though they are a specialist Triumph garage). Apparently
the place that can re-adjust + recondition the metering unit (they only
know of one place that does that here in Adelaide, Aust.) charges
approximately $500 (Australian), so I guess I'll have to wait for that (I
don't particularly want to try it myself even though I'm not completely
inept).
I guess the upshot of all this is that missing can be caused by a number
of things...
Hope this helps,
Frank Biedermann
*****************************************************88
Where is your timing set? The spec plate on my 71 TR6 has two timing
settings.
If you used a strobe timing light it should be set to 12 BTDC. I'd set my
timing to the 4 deg ATDC with a strobe and that was the wrong thing to do as I
had mucho problems once the engine was warmed up. I don't know why it
tolerated
it for awhile but it soon rejected that setting.
I learned after the fact that the spec. for static ignition timing means the
timing when set using a strobe timing light. Don't ask me what it means
technically...I would have thought static meant not running or something
but.....
This may also have something to do with your all of your running problems.
I've
known of at least 2-3 other people who have cured poorly running engines
with a
"correct" timing.
Let me know if it makes a difference.
The Fram filter is a PF-3600.
Bud 71 TR6 CC57365
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We've conversed before... I have the same set-up as yours - and have
recently been experiencing the same problem. I have been on vacation for 2
weeks, so have not been able to go back through the system to begin trial
and error troubleshooting. However, I did try one thing that has helped
immensely. Knowing that my plug gap may have been just great enought that
the spark couldn't jump it when everything was running hot, I reduced plug
gap from .035" down to .032", and the car ran perfectly that particular
drive (about 25 miles). Have not driven since, having just returned home
last evening. I'll keep you updated.
The oil filter is a FRAM PH3600. I highly recommend the equivalent WIX
filter - they are a much better (my opinion) filter as evidenced by cutting
open, looking inside and comparing with the other major manufacturers. In
fact, just picking one up tells you something - they are significantly
heavier than the others. (Last I knew, the NAPA Gold filters were the
same, made by WIX). WIX is sold by "Big A" Auto Parts, and also O'Reilly.
Martin Libhart
**************************************************************
PH 3900 is the Fram upgrade version. They also make one with some sort
of hi-perf teflon lubricant glommed into the filter element but I'd stay
away from that. $2.50 a piece at Wal-Mart if you have one nearby.
Keith Ehrlich
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"If we are what we eat, then I'm easy, fast, and cheap."
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Ed Hutchinson
Financial Aid Office
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P.O. Box 3050
Utica, NY 13504
315-792-7210
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