3. I dropped a line to Justin asking him the same thing. He told me
"no". It won't work with cast aluminum covers which are flat on the
bottom, and vary in width. It is designed to fit the stock cover only.
4. I am planning to follow Kas Kastner's competition prep manual pretty
closely in rebuilding my TR4 engine. Some of the head work has already
been completed. With .125 milled and the "D" camshaft (I don't plan to
use the other, full race cams, I like the power range of "D" 3500-5500
rpm. I haven't seen the specs on the cam you mention, but as an
autocross cam, it may kick in even lower.). Actually, everything in the
prep manual is pretty mild compared to some engines today. In addition
to Kastner's recommendations, I will be installing slightly oversized
valves if I can locate them and valve guides compatible with unleaded
fuel. I also am using Weber 40DCOE's, so will be using a mechanical
advance distributer (probably Mallory). Finally, I see TSI offers
roller rockers, I plan to check them out, too. I've wanted to try out a
set for years. We'll see.
5. I would be interested to hear from someone who is using the rear main
seal upgrade kit too. I was thinking about installing it, but it
requires machining the crank a bit and there's no going back! I'm sure
it uses a common type of seal, but....
7. I had my cylinders bored 86 mm + .20 some years ago in the last
rebuild without removing them from the block, no problem. I was
considering boring out to accomodate 87 mm pistons. Any thoughts from
the group?
8. I removed and replaced the cam in that last rebuild without any
special tool. Had the shop that bored the liners line-bored the cam,
too.
I will be working with a top quality shop to do a lot of the machine
work, head work, porting and polishing. I want to be sure this stuff is
done by someone who has done it hundreds of times!
Good luck!
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 #CT17602
Amatruda, Andy wrote:
>
>
> 1) Greg P. has said good things about the BP Northwest "autocross"
> cam. Any other suggestion for a "mild" improvement? Any problems
> noted about regrinding cams and ending up with one that's too soft?
> 2) Speaking of soft valvetrain components, I heard there were bad
> lifters out there. Anyone have a known good source?
>
> 3) Justin Wagner's valve cover gasket; Has anyone tried it on the
> aftermarket cast aluminum valve cover?
>
> 4) Has anybody tried any of Kas Kastner's race prep suggestions to the
> head in a fashion that can be used for street/autocross? I'm a little
> scared of modifying the combustion chamber with today's fuels, etc and
> also afraid of opening Pandora's box with other compensating
> modifications. How about just porting and polishing the head instead?
>
> 5) There is a kit to convert the real main seal to a more modern lip
> seal. Any comments on whether it's worth the cost and extra machining
> to convert?
>
> 6) Stainless headers; how well do they really fit? Is heat a problem?
>
> 7) Replacing vs machining liners? Without the special tool can a
> machine shop bore the liners without breaking them loose or creating a
> gasket problem?
>
> 8) Cam bearing special tool; is this essential or convenient?
>
> That's all I can think of now, but please feel free to share that
> wisdom so I can avoid the common mistakes. The car is prepped and
> I'll have the engine out tomorrow; still plenty of time to save me
> from myself as I begin the tear down and start ordering parts. Thanks
> in advance.
>
> Andy Amatruda
> aamatruda@ti.com
> Attleboro MA
> 1967 TR-4 A IRS
> CTC72209
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MZ
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