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Gas tank restoration, repro fender probs.

To: "INTERNET:triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: Gas tank restoration, repro fender probs.
From: Tony Rhodes <ARhodes@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 1 Aug 1998 12:47:03 -0400
I am in the process of my restoration of my TR4A.  I have the body off,
and hence, the gas tank is out.  What is the consensus about how to treat
the gas tank?  I can not see light through the metal, but I can't really
tell
the quality inside.  I had no problems with garbage in the filter, but it
has
been sitting for an quite a few years awaiting the restoration.  

Should I just wash it out, and reinstall it, or should I use the MOSS tank 
cleaner/etcher/slushing compound?  Or should I spring for a new
"Marine Grade Aluminum" tank?  Do the fuel lines need rerouting
in real life?  The MOSS catalog says that it MAY need rerouting.  I 
would have thought that they know exactly which models
would require rerouting.

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

BTW, I have new TRF rear fenders and rear valence panel.  I am
not too happy with the fit nor the quality.  The fit is WAY off.  They are
1/4 inch too short, and they have a bow with the mid point bowing outward.
If I were to try to bolt it flush it would kink in the middle.  Plus the
folded-over
top edge is a round fold rather than a knife-edge crease.  The original
fits 
perfectly and has a nice edge.  It is a shame to use $50 of a $350 panel
to repair the rust through, and still have to do a whole lot of metal work
fitting
the new sheet metal filler.

The stamped areas in the rear valence where the bumper bracket 
passes through are in the wrong locations.  They are 1/2 inch off compared
to the original valence.  Luckily they did not cut out the holes.  I had to
do a 
bunch of work removing the indentations of the stamping and creating
the correct stampings.  What a pain.  Was there THAT much variation
in the body during the TR4A run?

-Tony

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