Malcolm,
Thanks. The alternator swap is beginning to sound like more than an
evenings past time.
Bob
----------
> From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
> To: Kinderlehrer's <kinderlehrer@mindspring.com>
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: TR3A Generator- rebuild or replace?
> Date: Sunday, July 19, 1998 10:48 PM
>
> On Mon, 20 Jul 1998, Kinderlehrer's wrote:
>
> > Actually, it would dim if I got the revs up high enough, which led me
to
> > believe it was more than a loose wire. The ammeter seemed to stay
pretty
> > much neutral the whole time, not charging and discharging only with
turn
> > signals.
>
> That sounds like brushes to me. Check them first.
>
> If it is the brushes, check the comm (on the generator) for pitting. If
> it looks nasty, take the chance to upgrade to an alternator (if you need
> it) or get a generator with a big fat warranty ;-)
>
> > Assuming it is the generator, should I throw in some new brushes or
convert
> > to an alternator? Can I convert with a straight bolt on without having
to
> > fabricate any new parts? I remember some posts on the subject referring
to
> > a machine shop.
>
> If converting to a GM alternator, you need to bypass the regulator (it's
> built into the GM unit), grind a knob off the alternator casing, and swap
> the pulleys.
>
> ISTR that the gen. pulley is too big for an alternator (mine is, anyway)-
> and it seems that bolt-on pulleys are not easy things to find. A machine
> shop can whip one up for you, but at what cost?
>
> Anyone know of a GM car that uses a 1/2" belt instead of a 3/8 one?
>
> The bigger pulley causes the alternator to spin slower than it should-
> which means you have to 'blip' the throttle to get the light to go out.
> And the light will sometimes pop back on if the revs drop low enough.
(In
> my case it may have been because I was using a puny battery)
>
> -Malcolm
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