Bud, if it's the same as on Spits, the HE indicates a High Compression
Engine.
Tony Childs
72 Spitfire - Resurrected!!!
----------
> From: Bud Rolofson <Bud_Rolofson@nps.gov>
> To: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Rheostat and Tach TR6
> Date: Wednesday, July 08, 1998 10:57 AM
>
>
> Have been enjoying the dickens out of driving my new TR6 since picking it
up on
> Monday. It rained on Monday but cleared by Tuesday AM and I've had the
top down
> ever since. Nothing like riding to work at 6:00 AM with the cool morning
air.
>
> Have only had to fix three things so far. The brake servo adapter (for
the
> vacuum assist on the brakes) was loose at the manifold so I tightened it
up (one
> less vacuum leak). The line doesn't have a clamp but has clamp marks so
I
> suppose I should clamp that line to the adapter.
>
> The idle was a little fast so I adjusted the chokes to make sure they
were full
> open when warm. Didn't have an effect on the idle speed, so I backed off
the
> slow idle screw 1/8 of a turn and that seemed to help. I noticed that
the tach
> kept jumping around and between 1000-1200 RPM but that the engine was
actually
> running smoothly. Puzzled on that one until I noticed that the tach
needle
> stuck at 1000 RPM with the engine off. A light tap on the tach glass
made it
> bounce back to 0 RPM. Which leads to:
>
> Question 1) Is it the tach (a Smiths) or the cable sticking? What's a
good way
> to diagnose that? Can either of them be cleaned (always my first
inclination)
> or lubricated?
>
> Question 2) Can cables be "renewed" by soaking them in something to make
them
> turn, pull, etc. better (assuming they haven't been bent), e.g. tach
cable, hood
> cable release, air distribution cable, heater cable, etc.
>
> I also topped the dashpots (ZS carburetors) off with (on the advice of my
local
> LBC mechanic) ATF (because it has a viscosity of 10) but noticed that the
> gaskets for the dampers are missing and that may be why they were low...I
topped
> them to within about 1/2 of an inch from the top but later saw that the
fluid
> leaked out a little (I'll find a temporary gasket at ACE Hardware until I
get my
> parts order list together).
>
> Question 3) How full should the dashpots be?
>
> Drove around last night for the first time and noticed that the panel
light
> rheostat switch apparently is non-functional as my gauges all were very
dimly
> lit and no amount of spinning the rheostat would change that even after I
pulled
> the knob off and turn it with my fingers.
>
> Question 4) Any thoughts on testing to see if it's indeed the rheostat
switch
> before I add a $67 item to the list? Any hope of cleaning, fixing,
adjusting
> the rheostat.
>
> I knew that the engine in my TR6 wasn't the original block but in
checking the
> engine # (CC57465HE) (anyone know what the HE is for?...I've seen the E
before
> but not HE) it appears that I have a rebuilt 69 engine in my 71 TR6. No
> complaints as it runs great but I do have a couple of nagging concerns
since the
> vacuum unit (there is one unit and it is located on the side of the
ignition
> closest to the firewall) on my ignition was not connected and the inlet
on the
> front (closest to the radiator) carburetor was plugged.
>
> Question 5) Why does it have only one vacuum unit when the catalogs all
show
> both an advance and a retard vacuum unit for my engine #? Should I care
since I
> don't see any power loss at high RPMs (or would I get even more power)?
>
> I would like to add my thanks and praise to the fine people in this group
of
> Triumph enthusiasts who remain a source of knowledge and encouragement.
It is
> truly a comfort to know that there is a storehouse of technical knowledge
and
> common sense to rely upon when those creeping doubts of "what the hell do
I do
> now" set in. Knowing this group is there made it a lot more comfortable
to buy
> a 27 year old car.
>
> Bud 71 TR6 (CC25365L)
> Lakewood Colorado
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