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Re: welding and dogleg

To: Lftlesl@aol.com
Subject: Re: welding and dogleg
From: Malcolm Walker <walker05@camosun.bc.ca>
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 15:30:05 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
On Thu, 18 Jun 1998 Lftlesl@aol.com wrote:

> Two questions. One - I need to do some welding on my TR3B, and have access to
> a gas welding outfit (I need to learn first, but I'm looking forward to it). I
> know there have been welding threads in the past, but I didn't keep them.

For gas-welding, you will need the smallest tip possible.  I use a 000 on
my Victor.  I also have some bigger tips, which are handy for brazing, and
I use a 0 tip for welding the sheet-metal where there's multiple layers,
or a big chunk of steel close by (or something that would conduct the
welding heat away)

> Let's hear the gas vs. arc debate again (sorry if it's old news). Mapp gas is
> supposedly safer than acetylene - but does it get hot enough? Thanks for the
> input.

I use acetylene.  I bet you'll just consume more Mapp if you use it.

As for safety, you're working with something bloody hot no matter WHAT
sort of welding you choose.  It all does the same thing in the end.  I
chose gas welding because I already had the torch, hoses & regulators.
They're a bit big for sheet metal work, but it's possible, and I'm getting
good at it.

The thing with acetylene is that it gets unstable at high pressures.  The
cylinders are packed with acetone so that nothing goes kablooie;
consequently you can't use the last 50 pounds or so.  The acetone gets out
and makes the torch unhappy.  Maybe MAPP is more stable, and you can use
all of it.  Personally, I have no problem paying the extra to refill the
tank.

I use an MC size acetylene tank (10 cu ft) and a round-bottom B size oxy
tank (40 cu ft).  I think I may upgrade to a B-size gas tank sometime.

> The passenger side dogleg is rusted at the bottom only. It has to be cut off,
> but the rest is too good to waste. The big three sell complete doglegs, but I
> don't want to spend that much or deconstruct Rusty to that extent. Does anyone
> sell a patch similar to the front wing panels from TRF? How about if I make a
> mold off of a good TR3 and construct my own fiberglass patch for the bottom
> 6-8 inches of the dogleg?

You should be able to construct your own STEEL patch.  Fiberglass is OK
but it tends to harbor rust.  Welding does too, but there's a lot more
metal for it to play with :-)

The object is to re-construct the metal using methods similar to the
original fabrication.  IE, to replace my B-Post, I have had to carve down
through the floor and rocker, and start building back up.  So far the
floor is in, and I'm moving upwards.  I hope to have the rear of the
rocker done today.

I will also be posting some Web stuff.  Maybe I should compile a list of
"gas welding tricks" that have worked for me.

-Malcolm
'62 TR4 (with 98 steel)


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