John,
I use Spray Brake cleaner to do the same job. It is enough of a
solvent that it removes all the oils, etc. and it isn't hydrous so it
does not aid the rusting process. It is particularly good if you are
doing an "IN-CAR" ring job.
Joe Curry
John Middlesworth wrote:
>
> It's a principle of good engine rebuilding to wash out your block with
> soap and water once it comes back from the machine shop. If they've done
> anything at all to the cylinder walls they've also left a fine film of
> grit that can't be easily removed with just a solvent-soaked rag.
> Remember to dry the block immediately (with particular attention to the
> oil channels), and then oil the whole thing down. Otherwise it will rust
> in about 10 seconds.
>
> John Middlesworth
>
> On Wed, 17 Jun 1998 EPaul21988@aol.com wrote:
>
> >
> > In a message dated 98-06-17 05:53:51 EDT, jmccarr@ibm.net writes:
> >
> > << Anyone have any tips or "don't do's" on engine surface preparation and
> > painting? >>
> >
> > A local fellow was rebuilding a TR4 engine for a vintage racer. He took the
> > block to have it boiled out, then he took it and had it powdercoated. After
> > than he rebuilt the thing. Started up, but in a very short few minutes it
>was
> > obvious that the bearings were noisy already. Well don't you know the thing
> > had been sandblasted in prep for the powdercoating !!! He figured it would
>be
> > clean, having just been boiled out and all !!?? NOT. Trashed the bearings
> > and the crank.
> >
> > Bob Paul
> >
--
"If you can't excel with talent, triumph with effort."
-- Dave Weinbaum in National Enquirer
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