LBOTTOM2@aol.com writes:
>Forgive me for asking a TR6 question here, but I'm having trouble getting on
>another list for all Triumphs (was on for a while, but it mysteriously
>disappeared one day).
Probably you had a mail problem. Since there are thousands of
subscribers, anyone to whom mail bounces for a few days is automatically
removed from the list. Try rejoining.
>Me and three others have this same problem with our TR6s ('69, '72, '73 and
>'74 models). It is becoming increasingly difficult to shift into gear. Usually
>while driving, I am OK, but once the car stops, is placed into neutral and I
>try to put her back into first, she just doesn't want to go into gear. I feel
>like I am forcing it into gear. Shifting into reverse usually sets things
>right, but it goes into gear with quite a grind. It was suggested that I first
>shift into second or third before trying first, but this does not work either.
>Some of us are even having trouble shifting into gear while moving.
Mine is getting to this point slowly - I've been planning on
pulling the trans for a rebuild after the summer anyways.
Classic TR6 problem. The clutch activation design is flawed.
First, try the simple stuff - put the slave pushrod on the top hole of the
clutch lever. Stiffer pedal, but more movement of the clutch. Second,
check for mechanical wear - the pin that holds the pedal to the pushrod
wears over time - mine had some quite spectacular grooves in it. Even
small losses there can will have an effect. Also the pedal bushings wear
(more of a pain) and the hole in the pedal will oval. The pushrod at the
slave cylinder can wear, and again you can have wear at the pin/fork.
However, if none of those help (enough), and the hydraulics are in
good shape, you probably have the classic broken locating pin on the clutch
fork. This is the design flaw; the pin breaks with great regularity.
There are tricks to help in removing broken pins (drilling a hole opposite
and driving it out is one), but sometimes you need to do major surgery to
get the fork out.
ALWAYS replace the pin with the best one you can find whenever you
have access and it has any significant number of miles on it. Make sure
it's properly installed (I think it's wired, if I remember).
>It has been suggested that a small pin located in the release fork tends to
>bend or break and causes this problem routinely. They say that when the car
>was made, this pin was not heat treated and results in problems.
Bingo.
--
Randell Jesup, Scala US R&D, Ex-Commodore-Amiga Engineer class of '94
Randell.Jesup@scala.com
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