Thanks to all listers for they're info.This is what the outcome of my
oil-burner was; Disconnected the oil feed kit that was added prior to
rebuilding the head and drove it over 100 miles today ,( beautiful day in Maine
today ) ,top down and very little oil burning. Apparently with the feed kit,
too much oil on the top end. It turned 90000 miles today and never ran better.
A rebuild will be on the horizon but I think we prolonged it this week. If it
wasn't for this forum I'd have a motor torn apart (in my livingroom) by now.
Thanks again to all who responded.
Tim Hutchisen
CC57787 1971
"Shine she may but run she must"
Robert M. Lang wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I've seen this a few times. You do a valve job and then the motor starts
> burning oil. You've made the head "tight" but the rings are not.
>
> Get a leak down test and see which rings are going. I'll bet you're getting
> blowby at the rings.
>
> You want to know this is the case. If you catch this early, you _might_ get
> away with just replacing the rings. The reason I mention this is that the
> cylinder walls are lubricated by oil catching in the "cross hatch" tiny
> scores of the cylinder walls. If your cylinders are worn smooth or the oil
> is buring off due to higher temps, then you're not getting any lubrication
> there and the wear might be more rapid than it might otherwise be. If
> things get really worn in there, your only choice will be to do a real
> rebuild and you might have to bore out the cylinders to get everything
> "round" and working correctly. If things are really bad, you might even
> have to replace the pistons... that's $300 just for the pistons whereas a
> "rings only" job will cost considerably less - IF things are not too bad in
> there.
>
> Good Luck!
> rml
> TR6's
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