James,
I bought new cages and nuts from TRF and replaced all the broken ones on my
TR3. Very simple. I installed all body panels with stainless bolts and
washers, using anti seize compound wherever these captive nuts were located.
Don't weld the nuts to the body, you'll need the "slop" offered by the caged
nuts when adjusting the body panels during reassembly. Tip: when welding the
new cage to the body, use a long bolt and secure the cage to the body with a
second, temporary, nut on the outside of the cage. This method holds the
cage tight against the body during welding and leaves both your hands free.
Remove second nut and the long bolt after welding or brazing. Neat and
original.
Ed Woods
-----Original Message-----
From: JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com
<JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com>
To: triumphs@autox.team.net <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, May 12, 1998 3:07 PM
Subject: TRx caged nuts alternatives?
>
> Hi listers,
>
> When reassembling the bodies on TRs, what have people done besides
> using those nuts in cages? Or is the general consensus to use them
> again and let the next poor sucker worry about it 40 years from now?
> About 3/4 of the cages on mine had to be destroyed to get the body
> panels off so I have to figure out what I'll do.
>
> I've considered:
> a) Still using the cages but going to coarse threads,
> b) Welding the nuts on,
> c) Switching to stainless nuts,
> d) Using anti-seize and undercoating,
> e) Making new cages of thicker material so they don't spread easily,
or
> e) Some combination of the above
>
> TIA,
> Jim Wallace
> 60 TR3a
>
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