Malcom,
Thanks for the advice. I'm planning on going slow and trying the re-tapping
route. I'm in the process of pulling everything out from under the hood to
clean, paint, put in new wiring harness, etc. so a functioning fuel pump is
not an emergency need for me. BUT, I'd hate to get everything (eventually)
back together only to find it still leaks. Do you have any idea how I may be
able to test it out for leakage in advance of putting it back into the car?
Thanks again,
Dave
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Malcolm Walker [mailto:walker05@camosun.bc.ca]
> Sent: Friday, May 08, 1998 5:59 PM
> To: David Moag
> Cc: Triumphs Mailing List (E-mail)
> Subject: Re: TR3B Fuel Pump Threads
>
>
>
> On Fri, 8 May 1998, David Moag wrote:
>
> > Hello all. The fuel pump on my TR3B has what appears to be
> some trashed
> > threads where the output fuel pipe connects. This leads to
> the pipe screwing
> > in at a bad angle, and gas leaks. Since the pump is made of
> pot metal (it's
> > the original style), I am not sure I can simply re-tap the
> threads. Any
> > ideas what I should do?
>
> The actual seal for the fuel pipe (I'm assuming the inlet
> pipe, and I'm
> also assuming it's the same as the fuel pump on my TR4) is
> acheived by a
> brass olive (ferrule...) that gets crushed around the pipe.
> So if you can
> re-tap the threads, and they're a little chewed up, that's
> OK. They just
> have to hold the olive against the seat below the threads to permit a
> seal.
>
> *Note that teflon tape will not help seal the fitting, but anti-sieze
> compound will allow you to undo it
>
> *Note also that fittings (and any threads) can give false
> torque readings
> when installed 'wet' (ie, oiled, or with anti-sieze
> compound)-- so don't
> over-tighten the fitting, or you may rip all the threads out.
>
> -Malcolm
>
>
|