Listers,
A few things on Epoxy paints:
1. Make sure the concrete is fully cured, 30 days, and provide some means
of insuring the epoxy, which uses a mechanical bond, has something to grab
onto. Roughen up the surface. Sand blasting or grinding works great, if
you have the capability. Old or new concrete does not have open pores for
the paint to grab.
2. Make sure you have a vapor barrier below the floor you are installing
the epoxy paint on, or that you are significantly above the water table, as
the epoxy forms a water tight barrier and the hydraulic pressure behind
water comming through a concrete floor will pop the epoxy, actually taking
a little of the surface of the concrete with it. I was in the business of
installing commercial epoxy flooring. I have seen this. You can test your
floor by taping a 2 foot square clear plastic sheet to the floor during the
wettest season. If you get condensation, don't even think about using a
water tight sealer like epoxy.
3. Epoxy is available in two forms. The better stuff, especially for home
use is the 100% solids. It contains about the same amount of solvent as
latex house paint. No major venting requirments, although more venting is
better. I've installed it in closed areas, with monitoring equipment, and
not seen "unsafe" (by OSHA) elevated VOC levels. Personally, I perfer zero
levels, or resporator protection, when I am in the room.
As always, use your head when working with any products containing solvents.
Jack
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